Category: Greece 🇬🇷

I had a bit of food from my meagre supplies, a banana and a chunk of halva. But as promised I rode a kilometer down the road and the cafes were open. So good.

The road today was flat to Lamia then turning west and flat for another 30kms.

I was excited to stop at Thermopylae. There is a giant statue of Leonedes and other stuff. I know you all know the story or the film. But if I ask make sure you can recite what happened. (Or just tell me in the comments)

I struggled to find a decent camp spot this evening. It looked flatish but when I got on the tent I realised it was on a slope. It’s going to be a struggle to sleep properly tonight.

I’m sorry I can’t make them all interesting. I can only recite what happens 🤷‍♂️

My camp spot was good. After the Easter celebrations and fireworks everything quietened down. I slept well, woke up in the middle of the night feeling cold put on a long sleeved shirt, I already had a merino base layer and long johns on. I went back to sleep woke felt cold put on my puffer jacket, I woke again but didn’t feel too cold. I’ll start with the lot on tonight.

Off road and up for 500 ish meters, it’s a long way and I put everything into the climb, I didn’t try to go fast I just kept going. This had a devastating effect on my ability to get up subsequent climbs. I’m sorry I had to get off and walk. 🥵

As I said subsequent climbs were achieved very slowly or I got off and walked. I’m blaming it on lack of fitness.

I lay under a tree for about 90mins. Then found a beach bar, Easter here everything is closed, I bolted 2 sprites and half a litre of water. And rode out feeling much more sprightly.

The campsite I was aiming for I discovered did not open till 1st May. My spirits lowered, but I found another campsite only for my spirits to be dashed again as it didn’t open till 1st May also. I rode on scanning the sides of the road looking for an adequate place to pitch my tent.

I select campsites from Archies App or the Komoot App. It’s pretty definite that if it’s in Komoot but not in Archies it’s unlikely to be a proper campsite or it’s defunct.

After 90kms, I arrived at the supposed campsite only to be told it’s not a real camping. Grrrrrrr Komoot I believe they take their info from Openstreetmaps. I rode another 30kms to find this spot.

I traced the same route Brett and I did recently its got a few testing climbs.

Every where I go I am followed by guys on mopeds or motorbikes desperately trying to spoil any tranquility.

Last night (Wed), I was a bit out of sorts and didn’t go for dinner, I just lay in bed and groaned. Then next morning I was still feeling non 0lussed but did manage some breakfast.

The first part of the day was a 15kms ride to Agia Marina. As always we left in plenty of time but had to press to make sure we caught the ferry.

60 minutes on the ferry nice and relaxed. I know the route ahead, having ridden it many times. Straight out the port of Styra, there is a climb with such devastating gradients 15 -20%. No warm-up, it’s just up. And in my state of tenderness Brett sped off like a whippet chasing a hare. At the top, I was gasping but bravely pushed on. Now with the wind behind and 30kms to the next turn, we sped on. For a cyclist the speed/distance calculations, 65kms in 3 hours to catch the ferry, don’t sound too tough, but I was suffering big time and a few hills and the luggage were not helping.

After the first 30kms we turn right and pushed towards Kymi and our boat. They are repairing the coast road so 20kms out of Kymi the route turns off the glorious flat wind assisted road and into the mountains, sharp punchy climbs, Brett once again whizzing off the front (I’m sure I heard I heard him laugh as I grunted to keep going) he did intermittently come back not sure if it was to check how I was or just to mock me.

Eventually the road turns right and follows a river down to the sea and another left, the Achilles ship bobbing in the distance. We had made the time easily, Brett and I rode to the ticket kiosk on the pier. I smiled and asked for 2 tickets to Skyros. Sorry sir the boat is cancelled 😲. When’s the next one, possibly at 7pm tomorrow 😲. Our heads sank we had pushed together the 5pm ferry and now had to find an hotel, in Kymi. We were both gutted.

Luckily I knew of a hotel, of course its up a very steep climb, we plodded to the reception. The hotel was only sort of open and they had to make up a room, he also allowed us to put the bikes into the next room. Serious top marks to the Corali Hotel in Kymi.

7.40am boat is ridiculous 🤦 but we got up at 6am packed and got onto the hydrofoil.

60 minutes later we were getting onto the pier at Pireas. Road after road clogged with cars and lorries puffing out fumes, enough to kill any cyclist. We were surprised to see a few other cyclists put in the commute. Following the route on my GPS soon got us out to the other side of Athens. Despite our early start and the timings of other ferries, we were forced 😉 to have a short day. The hotel in Marathon was one I had stayed at before.

Not too shabby for bike packers.

When we looked at the profile of our ride today we thought we were in for a hard time, but the reality was we rode an easy 5% climb out of/Napflion, across the peninsula, mountains rising on each side. Eventually hitting the coast road at Epidavros. After a bit of searching we found the mini amphitheatre. Then to join back to our route we were rewardes with a kilometer of 15 – 20% gradients 🥵 we were mightily puffing after those.

The road turned south a long, winding, undulating piece of georgeous asphalt. The oleander bushes grow high on the sea side of the road obscuring the view a bit. Some graffiti daubed on the inside concrete barrier 😪. Parts of this road reminded me of the Amalfi coast. The views really were to die for.

We consumed a massive lunch, bought our boat ticket to Pireas, then cruised our way to the hotel.

We took the day off option last night it rained. And the town is so pretty a second day was not a chore.

Without cycling the day must be filled and sightseeing can get boring so eating comes to the fore.

As can be seen, Napflion is georgeous. But for some reason, walls, rocks, ancient buildings, all along the fantastic walkway around the ancient town promontory, everywhere is smeared by graffiti, shit, crap, childish graffiti, there is so much I just couldn’t bring myself to take any more pictures of it. I know I am old, but this is hardly great street art.

Harry a Greek guy from Athens but living in Napflion suggested a resturant Kakanarakis 1986, sync that I am was dubious, but Brett and I walked past, it looked OK so we sat down and ordered what turned out to be one of the best meals I have had for many, many years. So good, I really cannot recommend it enough.

Then we had ice cream.

Our night in Agios Theodoroi, was tranquil and the Greek salad we ordered had the most amount of Kalamarta olives, I had to leave some.

The Corinthian canal is spectacular. But from the other bridge, ours was particularly boring. You can see the other bridge in the photo.

High up we rode/with ramps of 15 to 18% our tongs hanging out. Our one solace was knowing that once up there was only down toll the end of day. 800 meters up, then plunging down along sweeping roads with views 😲 into Napflio.

We wandered the streets of Napflio drinking in the rare atmosphere.Brett persuaded me to walk the 999 steps to the castle, nearly causing me to have a heart attack; we are both showoffs and whizzed past all other tourists walking up. It was tough.

Then a small burger and home to bed. No stupid brioche buns here. But way too much for me. Its embarrassing how much weight I have put on so far this trip.

Breakfast and out, we were in good spirits, legs not so tired/as we thought. We agreed on a 10am start. And that was about right.

The route was originally designed as a gravel route and it started on the road to get part Chalkida, a little convoluted, but some interesting sites. Then as we went the road started to rise up. Unfortunately as delays someone had decided to ruin our georgeous vistas.

The route turned on us with a vengeance. Off road, gravel 🤔 its all in a personal definition. This vicious track massive stones bouncing our bikes left and right, throwing us off balance and a gradient way beyond what a road would give us. Our gears lowest 30 chainring 34 cassette way too high for this torture. Tempers frayed, thighs screamed and walking was an option. There could easily have been tears.

Could we keep this up for 7 days, the collective agreement was, no fucking way. Do we found a taverna and adjusted the route to more road while consuming the largest lunch 2 people could eat

Then we set off to finish the mountain.

Then, just down hill to the coast and find our hotel.

Happy days, showered and ready for a night on the town….. and a shorter day tomorrow. 😲

Brett and I spent the evening discussing plans. How much stuff we should take, clothes for heat clothes for cold.

The weather for the last few weeks had been abysmal snow, rain, wind……. oh how unhappy was I, frozen cold, fire on every night, this most certainly was not what I had signed up for when I came to Greece.

As you can see I made good use of the cold weather by trying to make myself as comfy as possible.

Brett and I did a preliminary ride on Thursday. The sun shone, I called the route a gravel route but Brett, mid ride asked if it was a mountain bike route, 🤔. I suppose gravel has a variety of descriptions.

Up with the sparrows, porridge consumed we left the house at 7am for an 8am boat. Arriving at the Linaria perfect timing. Someone, I’m blaming Brett but if course it’s my fault, had not checked the timetable, the ferry was scheduled for 3.30pm. We cycled home dejected.

A day hanging around the house. The journey back to Linaria. We are finally enroute.

Arrived in Kymi at 5.20pm 1st and second off the boat. And just cycled. I had promised the guesthouse would be with them by 8pm. Our route went up through gorgeous countryside the epitome of everything you desire, olive trees, grapevines, arid mountainscapes we were in cycling heaven.

But the sun quickly went down behind the mountains, the temperature dropped to cold. We cycled on ever up, Brett strong, forging ahead me whimpering behind. But by this time it was now dark, our lights were strong but only flashed to be seen not to see by. We struggled on, it was tough and not being able to see was scary as hell especially descending the switchbacks.

Eventually arriving at the hotel at 9.30pm. No-one to welcome us just the key in the door. The room was small but 2 beds and 2 bikes fitted, just.

Shower, food, and bed, finally sleep by 12.00.