Category: Italy 🇮🇹

Luckily just before I went to sleep I checked the boat times and discovered my ferry was at 14.00 instead of 10.00.

I woke to a front tyre flat, pumped it up ready for the off

I packed discarding any unnecessary bits if it wasn’t needed I chucked it.

Jumped on my bike giving myself 4 hours to do the 60kms. 2 kms down the road I was already flagging into the strong headwind. I had no choice but to push on hard. If my average speed dropped below 20kph, with stopping time (coffee/food etc not taken into my average speed) I had minimum time to play with.

I know this route so well having ridden it both ways many times. I kept remembering each successive hill and pain and anger etched onto my face. I had got to the point where everything made me angry, the road too rough, the drivers too close, the drivers too fast, the hills too steep, too frequent, the wind too strong these thoughts overwhelming me my legs weakening after every revolution. The front tyre was deflating again…Grrrrrrrr. Oh yes I remember I did a few extra kms yesterday than usual.

But there is a turn 10kms from Kymi port what the ferryboat cones into sight and the road mirrors the coastline. When I get to that point I know all is good. Am I turned the corner my front tire was so low I was hitting rim to the ground at every ripple in the road. Stopping once again to to pump it up.

Riding along the coast line joy returned to my head and a broad smile plastered across my face, the georgeous colours of the sea, the cooling sea breeze.

Rode into the port, bought my ticket purchased some cold water to drink and rode onto the boat.

90 mins later we entered Linaria harbour, I had sat zombified for that whole time.

Of course getting back to my bike my front tire flat again. I so like to ride hard off the front of the boat and be half way home before the fittest car is off the boat but I had to roll to the side of the road and pump the tyre up. The 10km ride is once again pretty undulating and always with a headwind down the centre of the island.

The front door was locked, so I phoned Martha….. she was having a siesta.

Martha and I celebrated at O Stefanos on the beach.

My tour is now complete. House cleaning tomorrow.

I set my alarm as usual for 5, unfortunately I forgot about the extra hour change from Italy to Greece. So an hour down the road I thought I had taken 2.5 hours to breakfast and pack then I worked out my mistake.

A Couple of hours in I stopped for my first coffee and a borgatsa (cream pie) they really are my favourite sprinkled with icing sugar and cinnamon.

I looked at the timetable for the Skyros ferry and discovered that there is one at 22.00. In that instant I hatched a plan. If I could get to the Scala Oropoy to Eretria ferry and land before 19.00 so 18.00 ferry I could get to Kimi Port and catch the Skyros ferry. Any later and I just would not have the time.

So I started cycling at a good pace. Then I met Will, he was cycling about the same pace as me and in the same direction. 2 cycling is always better and faster than 1. Of course we stopped for coffee and a lunch break. Over the Corinth canal. Then I dropped him off at his campsite. We got on famously and had many if the same opinions on many subjects. My ride with him was the first with anyone else on this trip and I enjoyed his company.

I then had 100km to the ferry. Now my road was flat and a following wind but as after Corinth there are more hills and the wind me got turbulent. Riding alone was hard and no respite. Then hills started to appear? I was wilting under the pressure. My average speed dropped to 18kph from 25kph and the hills even less. 18.00 came and went then 19.00 gone and I was rushing up the hills to make the 20.00 ferry. I arrived at the Ferry port at 19.52. At least I could get to the campsite by 20.45 in Eretria.

So 230kms not a bad jaunt. I’m blaming my failure on Will for making me eat lunch 😂.

There is a 14.00 ferry to Skyros so an easy get up tomorrow for the 60km ride.

I found a seat on the boat, blew up my sleeping bag and lay on it under the table. I slept sporadically as you can imagine hundreds of passengers excited about getting to Greece. Most left at Igominitsa and I got little sleep after.Eventually 14.00 arrived and the boat docked. I had taken my wet sweaty dirt ridden clothes off at the start of the boat trip I now had to put them back on…. The joys of touring.Just as I was about to hop on my bike at Patras for the 35km to my campsite 2 girls rolled down the gangplank one with a puncture. I offered to help, not that they needed it.We spent some time talking and mending Ellie and Liana are from Germany and were on a voyage/ride of discovery. They had a couch surfing host in Patras.I rode out into a storming headwind for my 30kms but a lovely Greek campsite… loud reggie music till late probably. Got to be 2 nights here.

I sort of wanted to stay in Matera another night, but the campsite was a bit funny, I wanted to go to the sea, but time and circumstances were against me, so I booked a ticket and set a course for Brindisi.

The route is pretty straight, mainly downhill and with the wind behind me. I rode hard and was hoping that my average speed would be above 20kph, my disappointment when seeing 20.7. I had to console myself with an ice cream.

These last few days have been hard, the heat furnace like, the roads gradually worsening, my nether regions sore and chaffed, cleanliness worsening. It’s best I get to Skyros and recuperate ready for the next trip

set a co

There were 4 of those blokes who instead of talk seem to shout everything, any the seem to do it all last night, I woke up intermittently and still they were shouting…. And whistling at their dog. But it seems the days of the quiet fisherman who sits all night quietly his thumb rested on his line waiting for the gentle tug of the perch, the slow play to get the fish on the hook…. no it’s shout all night and the electronic alarm regularly beeping then just jump at the rod when the alarm fires and wrench the fish in.

Anyway my alarm went off at 05.00 and I made my way to Rionero di Vulture. What I had coffee and buns galore and as I was feeling a little ferrel I had a bit of a beard trim which turned out to be the worst trim ever.

The lions share of my route was an 80km 40° in the shade but no shade available nearly straight blast but 2 positives were the wind behind and slightly down hill. After this blast I I plugged in where I thought the campsite was and 40mins later I was wrong, so I had to muster my energies and refind the campsite. 40 mins later (a litre of water and an icecream consumed as well) I got to the campsite.

I have booked the restaurant for some food tomight. (Ok Penny and Sally. 🤨) And it’s expensive hope it’s good.

I have been feeling a bit frazzled these last few days. I do usually eat a fair few pizzas in the day, but today the long stretch of road had no shops or towns to buy anything, there was no shade, soooo hot, and has been for a goid few weeks now. I have also noticed how dirty all my clothes are, I wash every day but it’s just not enough, suntan cream sweat, I’m feeling pretty rough. I reckon I’m going to make a beeline to the coast tomorrow.

I made the mistake of not taking any food to the B&B so had to survive with cold porrodge and a banana for evening meal. The B&B was real nice although there were a lot of mosquitos and it’s do warm being inside. I have not put the outer of my tent on for a week or 2 so now. But I slept OK. Breakfast at 08.00, even when I’m not cycling I eat breakfast earlier than that. But it was delicious and plentiful.I got going just before 09.00. The route was georgeous, rolling hills and golden fields. Rolled bales of hay everywhere. The sun was already high in the sky.I stopped for coffee in a lonely town and another touring cyclist came up and stopped.

He was from northern Italy near Milan and after 3 days was giving up and going back home due to the extreme heat. I tried to persuade him to make the decision at the bottom of the hill (You always feel better after a good downhill as opposed to a gruelling up) but to no avail his bus ticket got booked.I rode on, another 80kms to go.

I found a campsite near a lake and went off route to get to it. This took me on farm track up near vertical slopes but near carless, there is always a trade-off. Obviously to get to the lake was up and I was starting to plod. Finally creating a rise and the view tremendous. The campsite is as basic as the get. But a shower is about all I need.The guys staying in the picnic area shouting continuously may get agrovating. And just when I thought I was going to be the only person in the campsite a couple drew up in their car and pointed their lights at my tent, I hope they don’t switch them on in the night.Once again no food at this campsite. Porridge tonight and tomorrow morning.

Getting up at 05.00 is never a hardship. It’s dark and cool and no one is ever about and I enjoy that time of day with no disturbances. So when I woke this morning people were wandering about guys were coming in from the beach with fishing tackle, so I was already out of sorts. But still quiet in comparison with the day. Some young guys were just coming in from their nights out and one gave me a couple of small cakes for the road. It then when I got on the road the first few kms were quiet then suddenly a massive traffic jam5 maybe 10 in a of tailback. I didn’t like it, at 07.30 where are they going? The beach probably. I turned off down a side road and rode through swarms of small fliesI know horrible they were on me for the rest of the day, adhered by suntan cream and sweat. The road came to a dead Ok and anyway and I had to go back to the main road. Grrrrrr.I usually have a variety of stops coffee, cake, pizza, fruit whatever. And drink vast quantities. Every time I stop I drink a litre of fluid. Plus my Garmin telling me to drink every 15 mins. But usually at about 14.00 I’m tired. I have usually been cycling for about 5 hours the sun is at its zenith and the heat is so oppressive, today I sat and contemplated for a good 45 mins.

But time waits for no man and this region is famous for its buffalo mozzarella. I popped into a shop and bought a couple with some olives.

I really didn’t want any .Or he offered me more for free but I was full and had nowhere to store them on the bike-gutted, they were delicious and perfect with the olives.

It was a real struggle to get to Benevento I cruised around town.

Then I rode to my B & B, yeh I know splashing out. There are no campsites around here. Nice view

I discovered the night watchman at the campsite was from Romania and had been in Italy for 25 years. So I said I had ridden there and the town’s and cities I had been to. He treated me like a long lost friend, gave me his telephone number, and some breakfast pastries (I had already eaten porridge), then promptly forgot to give me my passport back I had to wait as he cycled back from his home to give it to me. No real hardship for me as I had a coffee but the sun gets up high and hot quickly.

I followed a lovely path by a lagoon only to be thwarted at the end.

My day was hot and I chopped on a pizza for lunch thinking it’s time I had a day off. So selecting a campsite a little bit cut off hoping for no live band/Or disco/Or other entertainment. I was successful. But it seems like the land that time forgot. And first time ever I have to pay for a shower, there are only warm showers. I usually opt for a cold free shower.

110kms. 5.19hrs. 394m of elevation

I was going to do some big miles today but as the heat built up it got to around 2pm and I thought I think I’ll stop.I left my beautiful campsite by the lake early but interestingly I didn’t hear my alarm.A transition day between the Tuscany Trail and the Appia way. I was aiming for Ostia on the coast. I did stand on one of the 7 hills of Rome looking down at traffic and mayhem and thought I am not going there. So Ostia it was. Practically all downhill and I made the 50km in red hot time. I stopped for double coffee and cake then moved on.The next town enticed me to a celebration of pizzaI have had very little electricity on all my phone, Garmin and my battery so took minimum photos. But it was just after my pizza that I thought about stopping. Jumped into a campsite and read my book.Also my Garmin has stopped talking to my phone and as a consequence it us not syncing with Strava. I have tried a multitude some solutions but to no avail.

SoYesterday.

123 kms. 6.15hrs 1183m of elevation

Today.

124kms 5.27 hrs 400m of elevation

Such a glorious start to the day. A ride along a path by the beach 10km of beauty. I did get to the end to see a closed gate but luckily a small walking gate was open.

I didn’t have any porridge so just started with a coffee luckily there is always a town near. But as i was nearing the town I was hurrying because I was hungry and i saw this guy on a bike in front….. I gave chase abd caught him (he was on a Storck bike) but then he half wheeled me which forced me on grrrr I was knackered when I finally got my breakfast.

Then my route took me on a dual carriageway for 20km I went at top speed so I could to get off as fast as possible. Luckily I found an off otherwise it would have been on for 30km fullblast.

These 2 occurrences rather swapped my day around. I like to start slow and work faster later. But I was fair knackered all day.

I consumed pizza like it was going out of fashion today… Pasta for dinner.

I rolled down to my campsite next to a lake early…… nice longer to relax.

Sorry no route today it won’t upload. Maybe it will tomorrow.