I was sad to leave the campsite, probably one of the nicest I have stayed in. I wimped a bit and set the alarm for 06.00 instead of 05.00.
I had observed the route profile last night. An thought I I climb the it was nearly downhill all the way to the sea. This was not the case, there were successive on and off road climbs, some I have to say we’re quite taxing.
But they did culminate to the climb up to (And then out of straight after) Pitigliano which is a very beautiful town.
But the road did then slope down to the sea, mostly off road. I did see thus poor wild bore by the track.
But there were a few sections that I got up to quite a speed, not fast enough to catch any other cyclists though.
I then got to the island of Monte Argentario which isn’t really an island as there are 3 spits that connect it to the mainland. I was to circumnavigate the island. I had been to it before so had some idea that there were some hills.
I got half way round feeling pretty cool. Then the road turned to a track and like always the gradients were steeper than the road and but off road for any given gradient is substantially harder than on the road, and with my bike fully loaded I had slow and agonisingly painful progress. Each time I joined a road and thought, this is it, I turned rough again and then finally just to tire me totally when I did get to the final road it was fiendishly steep.
But I knew my campsite was on the southern mist mainland link. And here I am, the opposite to last night, squeezed into a small space with 1000000 camper vans, 1000000 kids making lots of noise. Ho hum.
I loved it.But Tuscany’s countryside was waiting. I rode hard the route was maybe 60 or 70% off road. This time the hills were mildly undulating and the gravel was white and tame.
I opted to take minimal photos today. The weather went from rain to overcast and back throughout the day. And intermittently I was not at my happiest. And I did go through a particularly negative hour or so. I started thinking how nice Tuscany is, nice hills littered with nice towns selling nice stuff, I was/am missing the rugged lonesome landscapes. But I met up with a couple of English girls walking the via Franciegna
My route sometimes follows their path. We had a chat for about 20mins and it cheered me up no end. I’m now thinking how georgeous and spectacular everything is. I also went into Pienza that was a beautiful town.
I had planned to stop at a campsite I never know quite how far things are and so I just remember the town before the site and when I get there I put the site’s directions in the Garmin and then I find out how far I rode, just over 130 km today seemed like a breeze. And this campsite is great. I am the only person but everything is laid out well, it’s perfect for me. 😀 But pouring with rain, grrrrrrrr.
Correct, I have no idea what any of these are. But the 2 things I do know are the city is spectacular and I want to go back and the square looking arch is the beginning of my Tuscany Trail.Under this arch and up the hill for spectacular views of Florence, slightly marred by stalls selling tat.
I was hoping the route was going to be white roads extending off into beautiful Tuscan hills. It wasn’t there were a few sections of white gravel that was great, connecting tarmac. The route was most certainly undulating and the scenery was beautiful.
Each sapping hill taking more out of my legs. I had planned a stop at a campsite just outside San Gimignano, when I got there 6 other cyclists were there…. maybe cycling is popular around here.
The sight into San Gimignano. I left the campsite before anyone else was up. This gave me a fantastic solo ride through the streets.
Today completely made up for yesterday’s lack of white roads with probably 75% off road. The route cut and twisted. I know you think, oh how lovely gently spinning along seeing the road extend out ahead , if only that were true. Each hill ripping the energy out of your legs, I just dropped to the lowest gear but still that was not low enough, 2, 3, 4 occasions I had to stop to take a breath and leant into the bike to push the final 100meters to the top. My legs always wobbly at the top. Then the way down, the back wheel kicking and bouncing. Best I take it easy on the turns.I ducked under a barrier with a no entry sign…. I’m sure that’s for cars. 2 hours I saw no one. No houses just me on a gravel road in the Tuscan woods. So go. Then I passed some spectacular houses, just what I am looming for…. maybe a little rich for me 🤔.
On one section of road 3 guys caught up with me I told them I was on the way to Athens they told me I was pointing in the wrong direction.
I bought a pork sandwich from a guy at a market stall. Cut in half one at 11.00 and one at 14.00. I was stuffed.
Although there are examples of the real thing
Focaccia is a speciality of the area best I have some for breakfast
This one is with onion.
My route curved away from the sea, actually going straighter to cut out a promontory. But it was up all the way to the Passo del Bracco at 600+ meters.
The road eventually came down but one of the connecting roads was restricted to cyclists. I looked at the map and took a short cut
I usually feel I can get up anything, I think I got up just after half way, but I turned a corner and the rode rose up in front of me again and my legs gave up, resting my head on my stem panting for at least a minute then started to push.Luckily the last 15 kms were all down hill to the sea.
Not only had Franco moved in but 5 other tents. One with a baby of course next to me and of course it cried 3 or 4 times during the night and woke me. So my night was fitful.Next morning a slow get up and out the campsite gates. 5km down the road I stopped for C & C.
Straight after coffee the sky darkened and a vicious thunderstorm blessed us with a good few gallons of water. I stood under a petrol station canopy. Then as with all thunderstorms it stopped and the sun shone.The route along the coast can be all cycle path which I took. Along thus route there is the town of San Remo, fsmous fir being the end point if the Milan to San Remo bike race. The longest single stage bike race in professional cycling, 298kms.
So many people riding to the beach. I stopped for coffee and struck up a conversation with an Italian couple neither of us being particularly competent at the other’s language. But they mentioned a place near that they thought worthy of an excursions off the coast. I took up their suggestion and rode to Bussana Vecchia. Abandoned because of an earthquake in 1887 and left derelect until it was repopulate by artists in the 1960s. It is now a beautiful hilltop town full of artists selling their wares. Well worth the upward ride. It is meetings like these that make this trip so rewarding.
A friend in UK mentioned he had a friend who was living in the area and I was offered a bed for the night. Tanc and Sally live in a spectacular hill top village 20km from the coast Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena. I got directions and rode inland. I was told it was up a bit but for some reason I was suffering, there is no shade, the day had been extremely humid but the reward once again worth every pedal stroke, I have to admit I did have a couple of ‘moment’s on the way up of dizziness and heat exhaustion. But in the village I was met by Tanc and treated to a splendid night of, village get togethers, bonfires, and such a great and unexpected time.
A Couple of Days Ride Outta....... 