Daily Disasters: forgot to organise evening food so only have fruit to eat this evening.
I slept so well last night and at 6am I leaped out of bed packed. Ate the breakfast provided . And was on the road just before 7. Always with my coffee I cannot resist a marmalade croissant.
My route put in some really seriously steep climbs tosat, one at 20% and one at 15%, I didn’t get to check the others as I was puffing so much. I did decide to ride them all today so I’m feeling pretty accomplished. Winding my way through hill top towns and villages. I couldn’t help but stop and buy something then sit down to soak up the atmosphere. Observing people doing their everyday lives is so interesting. The speed people talk, the volume they talk, mannerisms, gestures. Seriously I could be there all day.
He deserved a picture all to himself for that parking. And always good to see a rugby pitch but I feel seldom used.
I had a choice turn left to the camping at the lake, but 40kms away. Or turn right to the nearest campsite. I took the latter but forgot to look for food on the way. So this evening I have only some fruit and a couple of cereal bars. That’s fuel for a long ride 😂.
Daily Disasters: There were some. 1. Komoot took me on 10kms of gravel. 2. Komoot tried to take me down a closed road. 3. I went down the closed road. 4. Campsite was closed.
6.45 as I left the campsite. My socks were wet, my jersey was wet, my gloves were soaked, it’s really not a nice feeling. 10kns in I stopped for coffee and a couple of croissants, a great pick me up.
Other apps said sunshine but the BBC app said thunder and heavy rain, luckily all day we had the former. But at 1500m it’s quite cool and I wore my Albion UL jacket, keeps my chest warm but my arms sweat and the material sticks to them, it feels like being wrapped in a plastic bag.
The road had been gently rising but at Cappadocia the road turned left and took a serious up turn. Twisting and turning up the sides of the mountain to a ski resort. At this point much to my disdain the road turned to gravel for the next 10kms. This part of the route I can hardly day how good it was, I was in a national park. I saw no-one. If I had gravel tyres it really would have been fantastic but I was worried. And I was alone in the middle of nowhere.
Eventually I was spat out onto a road so pleased, there were some tat stores only one of which was open. But I rolled to go down the road abd there in front of me was a Road Closed sign, but only one bollard. I went to the guy in the shop and quizzed him, he was the most unhelpful man. But he pointed in the opposite direction to the road and said go back to Cappadocia. Ooooo I was upset and angry. I started to go down the road in the direction he pointed, but it went immediately to dirt. I thought if I’m going back to Cappadocia it’ll be by the route I came, my Garmin will direct me there.
Getting back to the shop, it was now closed and the guy had gone. There was only one place he could have gone, down the closed road. I decided to go that way. It was stupid and sooooooo scary. The road clung to the side of the mountain sheer vertical above and below. I rolled down slow, dreading it would be blocked coz it was steep to go back up. Eventually I saw 2 cyclists coming up and asked if the road was clear they said yes. I rolled faster but still cautious. There had been a bit of stone fall onto the road. I got to a town and felt safe.
The road kept descending to Jenne where I stopped for a bit of lunch. I knew I had a climb to 1500m and the campsite I was aiming for. Out of Jenne the road topped at 22% of course I was walking way earlier than that.
It kept going up and up and I was getting tired. I met an italian guy who was out for a 9 day hike, I asked about the campsite he said it was open.
When I finally got to the csmpsite it was closed despite someone inside. Grrrrrrr. This area would be perfect for a wild camp, I cracked and booked a hotel.
I had stopped my Garmin. Then I started it to ride to the hotel, then when I got there the guy said it was a littke further, he didn’t tell me how steep the hill would be.
Last night it was cold and I wore my longjohns and my long sleeve top and puffa jacket, and socks. I know the full complement. Brett will be chuffed as he’s always wagging his finger at me for not taking enough clothes
Retracing my ride yesterday out of the valley I was hit by 3 pitches way too steep for me to ride up. Head down small steps. I was heaving when I got to the top.
But after a small descent then it was up again to 1054 meter pass.
Then up and down to Barrea. So georgeous
Eventually I rode over a 1500m pass, it was colder up there and spitting with intermittent rain. I rotated my Albion UL micro jacket and my rain jacket. And over the top there was a beech forest. Mioooow so good.
And a 1 min video of the beech forrest
There is unfortunately a blurry 5 mins video of my 500m descent, one handed in the wet. But it will never see the light of day.
Some time just after the descent it started to rain hard I had prejudge and already had the Gore Shakedry on. Everything is wet, inside the Shakedry from sweat the rest from rain. Luckily at the reduced altitude the temper was ok. I thought I would have been frozen. The jacket does hold out the wind.
I had earmarked a campsite, but I was extremely dubious if it would be open. But I had a bookings.com backup. I was riding hard through the rain, the road was flatish and the views destroyed by rain, cloud and mist. Also I was pretty sure the campsite did a siesta close. So I was working hard.
The route to the campsite was off my general route and I didn’t want to get lost. But the rain was dotting on my Garmin and changing pages automatically, stopping any ability to design a route to the campsite. Eventually I stopped under a balcony searched out an old tissue dried the Garmin screen and my hand and finally got it locked in.
Of course the final 5kms were uphill. I took my time. I was already knackered.
Finally I got to the campsite. The lady said go in and relax. I bought 2 packets of chrisps and 2 croissants and stuffed them for lunch.
I woke of course at 6am but had to wait till 8am my organised time for breakfast.
Out the door and up the hill I came down yesterday. But I was fresh and the gradient was perfect for my morning legs.
Of course it soon turned to this:
I was chased by this:
I was chased by these:
The dog count today was very high I stopped many times. This is my tactic, if I ride they chase if I stop they stop, I hope an owner comes out but usually I walk very slowly keeping my bike between them and me .. I am in fear.
The road was great today and the views outstanding.
Oh the coffees.This statue intrigued me. Unfortunately there was no explanation
I popped into the Orsini supermarket to buy a little bit of sustenance and came out with all this. I did eaten most at lunch.
As I said the views were spectacular
I did ride over this balcony bridge.
The ladt bit of my route was out, to a campsite. I wasn’t sure if I would stay as I had done so little, I just thought I’d ride on but…….
The joy of the tent is that usually when the tweeters start up the sun is starting to rise. I wake at this point, its a real joy. So i packed up slowly. I forgot to tell the reception i would be leaving early. But there was a small side gate. And at 6am I was on my way.
Retracing the last 5kms from yesterday. The road the campsite was on had cars and lorries hooning along. I cringed at the side of the road. But a right turn takes me inland and towards some elevation and practically zero traffic… a pure joy.
My favourite meal of the day.
The road twisted and turned, weaving its way into the mountains. Lush fields green woodland, such a joy to be riding through.
I stopped in Fraine for coffee and a pastry. The town was celebrating, I still have no idea what.
Leaving town I was greeted with this. Its actually the second of 2 gradients. I had the strength for 1 only.
The road still rising. Then as I was buying lunch (mozzarella and a roll) I saw this:
I sat in a bus shelter and waited eating my lunch. The wind was howling and I shivered and put my rain jacket on, just in case. And contemplated. My thoughts were I had to go down a hill then up a 500m hill to my campsite, possibly in the rain. I broke, Martje and Stan would have laughed at my patheticness, I booked a hotel. 17kms away, all downhill.
So I cycled down and the storm clouds blew over and not a drop of rain. 🤦 I shake my head in shame and disappointment in myself.
But that lasted a second now I’m revelling with being inside for the night, getting all my stuff charged, having breakfast made for me. Whoop whoop.
I font know if it’s only on the paid version but if you click on my activity then click on the arrow, see picture. You will get a brilliant video of the route.
I woke at 4.30, after a about 10 mibs of trying to get back to sellp and failing I started to get up. I had a little fruit for breakfast. And was on the road just after 6am I had to lift my bike over the front gate.
I stopped for coffee and a croissant at a petrol stop at about 7.
At first the road was left turn right turn just s series of turns and I was getting a bit bored. But eventually I got onto a long straight road, not particularly less boring.
Of the few hills one of them I was down in tge drops, very unusual for me. This reduces my ahead vision and i missed a massive pothole. Luckily I rose up and jumped to clear the hole and much to my surprise I landed safely on the other side.
I eventually stopped in a town more coffee and cake. I got some fruit and went into a bakery and bought some of these nuggets of gorgeousness. Packets of pastry wrapped round sliced olives, oh heaven.
Then I jumped back on and span the legs. The road was being eaten up. I knew my campsite was just after I meet the coast again. My Garmin was showing just the map and I started to feel a little tired, checked Komoot and I only had 10kms left I span that inno time. Of course the campsite I had earmarked was closed, but 5kms down the road was another one.
The road is due to go up a bit tomorrow. So I found a washing machine to properly wash my clothes. I’m not particularly good at hand washing.
The 1 hour time difference is great. I’m up early and it feels like it’s late.
Leaving the campsite I searched for a coffee stop. And as I swung into the cafe. Karl was sitting there. So we enjoyed a coffee together. He had broken another spoke and was waiting for a bike shop to open.
I scooted off in search of pastry and sweetness and found a bakery that had small pie things, with unknown fillings and a couple of rolls. I stuffed them in my pockets for later.
Once again the road is flat and pretty uneventful. The towns are frequent and unfortunately a bit nondescript. Stopping for coffee and sat and ate my pies that were delicious, the chocolate ones were just too sweet.
Then I was sitting relaxing in the shade and noticed the campsite I was hoping to stay in was only 13kms away. When I got to it the guy told me he had only been open 3 days and there was no resturant or shop. He guided me to the next door site that when I arrived it was heaving, and very pleasant. I looked at the time and it was only 12.15. That really is an early stop.
I had talked to Karl for a good while and we were joined by 2 Greek guys who said they were part of the 1000mods stage crew driving their gear to Frankfurt.
As per usual I missed my turn and had to ride with the trucks put of Bari port. But this put us onto a cycle track north out of town, that took me onto a main road. Deciding there must be something better than the main road I took a right turn towards the sea. Of course there was a coast road all the way north.
25 kms, a coffee, a bakery delight, later and a long conversation with a French cycle tourist I saw a camp site swung in and pitched up.
I had minimal sleep last night snd thought a very early stop today would do me some favours.
I got out my Komoot route designer. And readjusted my route. I had designed 2 but I was not satisfied with either. And the new route is away from the flat coastal road and into the mountains. Campsites are hard to find in the mountains but I have weaved a route getting to a few 🤞🤞here’s hoping it all works out.
The guy in the next tent woke me at 5.30 coughing, spluttering and hoiking. I got up.
My Dyneema bags, I always double bag clothes/sleeping stuff than need to be dry, are hanging close to my front wheel. One touch and that would ba a hole right through. I put in this crisp bag barrier and hope
I have no idea what Komoot is thinking. I’m riding along the old national road practically zero traffic when suddenly the route takes me off the road into a maze of small roads and turns in a town (going nowhere near a cafe) then 2kms later spits me out onto the original road 🤦.
I rode fast today. The road is flat with minimal undulations. The sea to my right and mountains to my left. It’s a great road. But I have done it many times before so I just concentrate on getting to Patras.
I get into town and get my hair cut.The barber recomended me to go to the castle so I did.
I bought a ticket to Bari. The only person this is relevant to is Shpend who I’m supposed to ge meeting in Seville. If I’m late he’ll have to start without me.
I bought some fruit and this guy gave me a mellon.
Currently on the boat trying to sleep but worrying about my bike in the hold. Karl from Austria, wlso on a bije, and I shared frustration as we had to take our bags off the bike for them to be xrayed. They confiscated my knife, to be returned in Bari.
Daily Disasters: 1. Waited 30 mins for gate to open, 2. A truck drove so close I dropped the C bomb at full volume,
Oh the joy of a good night’s sleep. I awoke at 6.30 had a little breakfast of doughnuts and yoghurt, packed my stuff up, said goodbye to the Swiss cyclists. Got to the entrance it’s locked, and the second entrance is locked. Grrrrrrrrr. I waited. 30 mins. 🤷♂️
A guy shouted the road was closed, of course arrogant cyclist ignored him. The bollard blocked road i sidled through, luckily. I rode down the concrete drainage channel for 200m and bumped into the road I wanted to be on.
Many roads here (like most countries) have had utilities put in after the road has been laid. But they dig a 10cm wide trench and put in the cable/pipe, whatever, then backfill. Usually there are 2 or 3 like tram lines. Often with a little lip just to cause fear when traversing them.
Snake not run over by me I hasten to add.
Komoot always takes cyclists, well me at least, to this bridge
As you can see from my photo it is temporarily closed, but it is serviced by a minor road, possible the most uninspiring crossing of the Korinthian canal ever. But really we want to be guided to this
I know it’s spectacular. 😲
But it is serviced by a bigger road and lots of these
My road was flat but with the beautiful bay of Korinth on my right I enjoyed every moment.
My Open bike is light, about 8.5kgs. My baggage is possibly 10kgs lighter than previous recent trips. I have got my saddle into a position where my ass isn’t killing me constantly. I better be careful I’ll be enjoying myself soon. 😃
I have sort of got into the habit of stopping quite early. I like getting my tent set up washing my cycling clothes and knowing they’ll be dry in the morning. I have stayed at https://www.akrata-beach-camping.gr/index.php/en/home before and so when I saw it come up on the map I went in like a rat up a drainpipe.