Category: Spain 🇪🇸 ’23 The Vuelta

Unfortunately also the eater turned off again by the morning, not an overly chipper morning.

After yesterdays debacle i felt surorisingly goid in the morning. The newly designed route took me on the service road beside a motorway. I was expecting this to go on for ages but it was surprisingly short and not too bumpy.

I had one bigish mountain to get up about 1850meters and 10kms long. There were a few 13/14% kicks but most was ok.

Then it was down down the 20kms to Segovia, which is very beautiful. I had finally found a campsite, unfortunately it had been clised fir a year or 2. Its website is still up and running. So once again i am in a hostel.

Sometimes things get to your hitting you again and again ripping the motivation out of you heart and the energy from your legs.

I rolled out of old Toledo and through the city gates.

These were all within 20kms from Toledo. But definately were not the only examples of the devastation

But a couple made me detour from my 80km route to a campsite. 80kms seem like a breeze. But hot and humid saps the energy and strength.

Looking at the map, i discover i am only 20kms from the campsite, i give a little skip.

When i saw this. I looked at the route plan, easy adjust another bridge 5kms further along, but that ain’t there. A policeman said there is a third bridge further along, thqt i might be sble to walk through the water, but another said no way. I rode half way to the third bridge and met s german guy who took me on a 5km off road wild goosechase, i was knackered and so frustrated at the end of the 4kms.

The problem is, these bridges are the gateway to the north. To not go over them, which i obviously cannot involves a massive detour.

Some national guard guys suggested a route, 1st of sll i had to retrace my original route, when i got to the potential short cut it was barred. Each time these things are happening i am getting more grumpy and demotivated. I sat in a petrol station trying to see where to go. There is a potential service road up the side of the motorway, but this is a gravel road and possibly waterlogged.

I booked a hostel, another drying of the land day can only do good.

When i got to the hostal, its a bit sleazy. I got to my room and discover because of the floods there is no water till 8pm and its only 4.

I have apent a bit of time and i believe i have set up a route that may work tomorrow 🤞

Nowhere to eat and the supermarket is horrible.

Days off are always boring, when your days have been bursting with energy and pushed to the limits, to lie and do nothing is a real struggle. So i messaged my friend Shpend renowned for his sage counsel. I told him i was bored and also i was up on schedule and definately didn’t want to be in the north too early for La Vuelta. I also mentioned i had talked to a guy who had said how beautiful Toledo was. Shpend just kicked my ass and said, do a short day on Monday, as a recovery ride, to Toledo and enjoy the sights. Now I am here, I can hardly say how pleased i am with the decision.

Lay awake, looking at the room ceiling till maybe 3am when i finally nodded off. Waking at about 8am. Packed, coffee at the hostal and on the route.

2 days of absolute torrential rain had caused devastation.

Rwmember my pictures will never do it justice. But Toledo, highly recommended.

20 mins into todays ride i knew i needed a longer rest than just atopping early. So i looked ahead, fired up Bookings.com and found a hotel for 2 nights. I had a fitful night last night, waking 3 or 4 times, i know, it’s the haircut. Of course it didnt stop it from being a 140km ride today.

It’s really my ass that is hurting, and certain areas have been rubbed to excess and need some healing time. The saddle is the culprit…. if you knew how many saddles i have tried.

I saw a tractor garthering all decorated with flowers, i should have taken a picture but didn’t. I also saw some granite fence posts that were georgeous, also no picture. I worked hard to get to the hotel as early as possible. I told the owner 5 but arrived at 4.

Late, in the dark, as i was getting my tent up, I saw a cyclist riding past, i was going to shout but thought better of it.

As soon as i was horizontal, my eyes were shut, i was asleep. Waking at 4.30, i lay and just did some calming breathing exercises. Suddenly it was 6. A little breakfast, i didn’t have much.

On the bike at 7ish. It was still going up and my meager rations last night and this morning didnt set me in the best stead. But stady riding, past Our Lady Cabeza Monestry and on up, first in the dark then as the sun rose, no one drove past me. The quiet was a little scary. But the moon is nearly full so the road is illuminated.

Unfortunately there was a lot of undulations before the descent.

The descent was long and relaxed

Then back up, i really struggled to keep going. I had not seen a shop or house or anywhere to buy food. Luckily i found a water fountain so at least i had water. I fired up my stove and cooked some porridge i had some honey, and coffee which was reviving. Then onwards and upwards.

It’s such a mental struggle to keep going sometimes. The pull to just ride to the side of the road and curl up into a ball in the shade, constantly harasses my head.

I eventually pulled out my phone and booked a hotel in Puertollano. A town 40kms away. Surprisingly the distance disappeared fast. As i got into town i went to a supermarket and bought way too much food, then on to the hotel.

I got there at about 4, this causes such a food dilemma. I ate immediately but now i wont be hungry at 6 or 7. So my evening meal is closer to 8 this seriously affects my getting up time.

The Sierra de Anujar and surrounding countryside, if you dont quite time it right is a long and lonely area. But very ruggedly beautiful. I mosd definately had a tough day out. Not wven reaching the ton.

My alarm went off at 5 30 but unusually i think i dozed for a bit. But time waits for no man. I packed squeezed into the lift and descended. So much bashing and crashing at that time. But outside i asked the streed cleaners where i coukd find water. They pratically took me to the fountain, so helpful. Then into a cafe for coffee.

As always great to off. I descended a bit and wished i had put on a long sleeve, but as soon as tge road turned up i was hot. The darkness hides the land scape but entering the district of Jaén there is a gurantee of olive trees and millions of them.

The olive groves stretch throughout the day. My usual snipof information is, Spain produces more olive oil than the next 3 countries combined. (Italy, Greece and Turkey i think 🤔)

Such a beautiful route today.

I got into Martos i went for the 1st cafe. It was ok. Unfortunately i discovered many beautiful parts of the town later

I stopped in the Coviran in Arjona and bought some quick eat provisions. As i was consumibg tgem in a close park the owner came out and gave me a bottle of water. So kind.

Then i rode on, discovered the campsite i was aiming for was not a campsite. I med a South African who had been living im Morocco and was travelling on a motorbike to start work in Madrid. I eventually stopped in a rest/picnic area. Waited till it was nearly dark and put up my tent. Today was a good day.

A week at Camping Orgiva. It was like coming home, to see my friends Lynne, Chris and Moira welcome me. Gave me a warm glow inside. The magnitude of the effort of completing the Badlands route, some people may say a little foolhardy to do this in the middle of summer.

My friend Adam commented, Looks bloody gruelling. I replied, The struggle is what gives it value. If it’s easy it’s hardly worth achieving.

From Malaga i did 15 days, 13 rides, 835 kms

The Badlands Route. I did 13 days, 11 rides 724kms with 13646meters.

The day temperature was never below 40⁰c and top temp was 55⁰c

Incidentally the Badlands race is just about to start on 3rd Sept.

The moment i leave I am jetesoned back into travelling mode.

Road riding has its plusses, you are not shaken to death and battered every day. I like to take brakes, eat as much as i can, drink when needed. But my saddle is not overly my friend and its all prerty tame.

I got into Alcalá la Real at about 4.40 it promised 2 camping spots but one was a caravan park and tge other was a football stadium. I couldnt be bothered to carry on so Hostal Reo De Oro it is. Safely tucked up.

I

I have stayed at Camping Trevelez a few times but surprisingly nearly empty. Too lazy to cook i ate at their resturant.

The next morning instead of the 4.30 start I slept till 6 and probably left just after 7.

To get a coffee i would have to cycle down a few hundred meters and it wasn’t in me to do so. The route zig zagged up on a steep concrete road with small ridges across, particularly unpleasant.

But eventually the road levelled out and i rode with a broad smile across my face, each turn revealed a vista so awesome. And a place to cook my own coffee.

There was one section that needed some careful walk descending and ascending. But after that a roll down fast descent into Capileria where officially the Badlands Route finishes.

It’s always a bitter sweet feeling. I really enjoyed the Badlands route, but it was a bitch of a challenge. My friend Brett asked me how hard and definately this is the hardest route i have undertaken. Not helped by the 40⁰+ temperatures, it was sweltering and the limited supply of water. Glad i brought my filter. I see pictures of the race and groups of gravel riders i am very pleased i succeeded alone.

Yes yes sometimes i could have done with company but as always overcoming the terrain, the heat, limited water, mechanicals, route problems, food problems, alone is an accomplishment to be valued.

From Capileria its a downhill tarmac roll to Orgiva.

I am now ensconced at Camping Orgiva for 5 days to a week before travelling north to watch the Vuelta ascend the Angliru.

Be ready for next block to start in a week or so.

The hotel allowed me to unlock and leave my key on the desk. Early morning coffee at the local bar, not sure if this lot are, late nighters or early morningers.

Aftery ride out of town the morning went sort of like this-

Every pedal stroke, every foot fall worth it the see the magical beauty. 🙂

Im very weary of my shoe, any repairs done rendered useless in seconds on the first climb. I stood on the pedals all the way up a long concrete climb, it’s getting tough.

I’m getting to areas and towns i know. So many of the roads and tracks are familiar, i was fooled a few times thinking i was about to descend but inevitably going up.

On today’s route warnings it says, Includes a very steep up hill segment. I usually ignore this as there are so many steep up hill segments.

The section in question is the track between Timar and Juviles. The little slot to start this section is nearly impossible to find. I sensibly changed to my sandals.

I constantle reminded myself small sure-footed steps Mark. One trip and you are toast, if i started tumbling there really would be no way back.

The 2km section took an hour to complete.

I know it was Saturday night but my neighbours got back ay about 11pm then left their car engine running for at least an hour. I have no idea why.

So when my 4.30 alarm went off i let it ring for a bit extra. Packing in a campsite is good as there are always lights on.

As i left the campsite little did i know the dead flat hell that was waiting for me. The coast path, of course was 90% sand, absolutely no riding going on here. I pushed and pushed and pushed. I guestimated it was 6kms. Which means it was probably only 2kms. This pushins sucks every ounce of energy, enthusiasm, and joy out of me. And the one time i did get on and ride the path immediately turned back to sand slewed the bike and threw my sweat covered body into the sand which is still in the evening dotted all over me.

Of course eventually sand turned to track, track to path then road. Into central Almeria, the coffee revived me a bit

But its hard to describe how much energy was sapped from my body.

I knew there were hills, there always are. The track leaving Almeria was easy enough for me to ride. So quickly out of town and into beautiful mountainous nature. The views inland and over to the sea were fantastic. This route is so good.

But i cannot remember when but the path changed from beautiful track to big stones, just a bit smaller than a cricketball. Falling on this is a real bad option, injury is pratically guaranteed. And eventually the the area i was able to ride on became so narrow and i was going so slow. I made a tatical dismount and walked. I suppose it’s a little better than sand. But it was up and up.

My left shoe has all the tread ripped from the front. So now it just looks like a road bike shoe. I have just covered the front in superglue. Likleyhood of it helping is about zero but i have to try something. It has to last 2 or 3 more days. There is so much walking it is ripping through the carbon. Not sure i want to be cycling in sandals.

I walked and walked, very seldom was there any chance to ride. Some may say i should have a mountain bike, but the second road part of the trip people would say you need a road bike. But this is what i have, its a compromise sometimes. But nothing would stop from me hating that section. I was really questioning my decision to carry on at all.

I stopped at a small village. There was a water fountain so my bottles were full for the evening. Also a community pool where i staggered in and ate 3 ice lollies, there were peculiar looks.

I then pressed on getting to the peak of the climb before plumetting into the depths of the valley. Where i found a flat bed of stones for the night, it was surprisingly comfortable. Or maybe i was just too tired to care.

Yep an add on day as no internet last night.

I woke at 4 and packed up. I ate what food i had left over. Probably started cycling at 4.30 or 4.45.

Up up and more up, going that slow in the pitch black is pretty scary. As i was in a deep ravine there we absolutely no lights except the stars. I had checked and knew it was a 10km climb and also an elevation of from 500m to 1400m.

As i was a bit scared of completely ruining my shoes i rode the climb in my sandals, surprisingly ok to cycle in. At the top there was a seat and a georgious view point.

I brewed a coffee and relaxed watching the view. Then packed up and freewheeled the road down.

I freewheeled nearly all the way to Berja. Where at 11.30 i had an early lunch. My legs tired from the walking the day before and the early morning climb, I wasnt feeling too clever so i booked a hotel and lay flat for the rest of the day.

My Garmin/or me failed to record the ride today which I’m a bit grumpy about. But approx 43kms and 1000m climbing.