Category: Spain 🇪🇸 ’23 The Vuelta

The hostel doesn’t usually open till 8am but the guy kindly allowed me to leave the keys in a flowerpot. I said 5 or 6 but it was 6 20 as i left. I consumed a lot of fruit for breakfast

The road winds its way towards the sea. Mainly down hill but not steep. As usual the excitement of seeing the sun ride over the horizon fills my heart with joy (until the heat hits me like a sledge hammer). Second breakfast and coffee was at a large motorway hotel and cafe.

The price of our tomatoes and other fruits in tge UK is the south of Spain being covered with field size plastic green houses to make them grow. Its an abomination.

Yes and seeing the sea is exciting. I expected the road to be a littke undulating and it did not disappoint.

I have split this 750 km route into 9 seperate routes. Just for convenience. And today i finished one sndvstarted another. As i had a coffee and looked at the new route profile there were 2 blips of hills that i knew i would be clumbing today and a massive mountain reserved for tomorrow.

And what a shock when i saw the hills, so steep rugged gravel. This section of road had been car restricted, not fully but practically none, it definately makes the travel experience more pleasant. I plodded and pushed in the sweltering 2pm heat. Eventually topping to spectacular views.

2.20 at the campsite.

I got up and retraced the 10kms back then another 10km on into Tabernes, i deserved a coffee at this point. Despite being in the close vacinity of where The Good the Bad and the Ugly and many other Paella westerns and at least 2 western theme parks, Tabernes was very pleasant.

I searched out the water fountain and filled up all bottles. All I knew as there would be some very steep climbs mear the next town, then down, down, down.

The route was great the surface easily negotiatable. And my path twisted and turned along gorges, high sided.

Then i came across this

I think i missed a small turn, it seems with karge consequences. My Garmin showed my route a little to my right, going back us never sn option so i took a quick reccy came back and pushed/pulled/hauled/shouted to get the bike over.

Now i was just following a riverbed. I didnt think of the consequences of where it would take me. But still i was travelling paralell to my route to the right.

I came to the end of my riverbed canyon

I was gasping. It took all my ingenuity and strength. There were some hairy and scary moments. I feel achieved. Oh and there was my route.

When i get onto a road it is joyous how easy it feels but usually short lived. The road to Turrillas is steep but my route turns off slong a concrete path maxing at 24% i can assure you there was only pushing going on here. I asked Turrillas, no accommodation.

It is at this point i finally broke. The route went up a hiking path so steep and gnarly. A guy said follow another path instead. And this i did, and what a magnificent path it was light gravel all the way and joining the original just outside Nijar.

But of course no digression goes unpunished. As i was hammering it down a hill i heard undesirable squeaking. Looking down i discovered a nut disappeared and a bolt loosening. So lucky i had a spare nut. Of course this is not a 5 mins job, it demands some unpacking and unstrapping. I then discover other things that need tightening and checking. So 90mins later i set off again, i have tightened the bolt snd superglued to nut on. Lets see how that holds up.

I rolled into Nijar at 3.15. Everywhere on Bookings com was full, but i cruised into Hostal Montes and booked in 2 nights, seriously my undercarridge needs a days rest, theres a whold world of pain and soreness going on.

My camp spot was great, the vie when light the view when dark and the stars at night. At 2000 meters there is near zero light polution, oh oh oh.

Packing and leaving was sadness but 6am i was on my way, it was then i discovered a fliwing water fountain and 2 or 3 shelves designed for camping. Well at least i got to replenish my dwindling water supplies.

Free wheeling down the road my dynamo lighting my way in the pitch black. Then 5kms down the descent the route turned off the road and plumeted down what looked like a black hole straight into nothingness. If i had hesitated the courage would have left me. So into the abyss i went. I cannot describe the exhileration. Twisting and turning down until popping me out onto s road again after 10kms. If i had been american i would have whooped.

About 20 kms later i eventually got to Gérgal. I had my usual but worst of all my toast and tomatoes.

This is where it a started to go horribly wrong about 5kms south of Gérgal there was a padlocked chain with a private sigh, no padlock i would have leapt over but i funnily respedt padlocks, so i returned to Gérgal and followed paralell to the main road until i could cut back to the route.

Back on the route o was feeling pretty chuffed with my self.

Then the route followed a river bed through a gorge. For most times this would be spectacular to see, and it was, but i could not cycle as the sand was so soft and i spent the whole time looking down and pushing.

The route crossed a railway line, luckily there was a guy there who said no trains were due, i leapt across. I struggled to push the bike up and the route was so gnarly i seriously nearly gave up altogether, the ledge was so narrow i had to lean into the mountainside carrying the bike to stop myself from tumbling 100m down the mountain. Lifting, shoving, dragging, crying. I must have been pushing up for at least an hour.

Its a walking track not really for cyclists. But eventually it turned to a gravel roas i smiled… down hill now. No sooner had i got going but a sign saying no through do not enter. I ignored it, but down hill 500meters further another 2 signs, i ignored then and 500m further down a padlocked gate. I saw people had carried round but i was scared. I retraced my steps alk the way back to the railway. I was shattered i lay on my mat on the ground and slept for an hour.

I designed a route back to a road, along the river bed again. Eventually i got to the road. And tried to book a hotel, everythung taken within a 10km radius. Luckily i eventually found a hostel with 1 room for 1 night, 10 kms away.

Shower, wash clothes food and now it’s 10pm.

I really am shattered and have to leave tomorrow.

I showered, got dressed, packed, down stairs by about 5am. Unfortunately the garage was locked. I went back to bed till 6.30. Had coffee and croissants then left.

Already it was cooler than the day before. I got to Gor in 15 mins or so, and felt real disapointed i had filtered 5 litres of water in the hotel.

Just after Gor i stopped to ask a couple sitting on a step if there was a cafe about. They said no but immediately offered me a cup. I obviously accepted.

The route was real wild. Sometimes pretty indecipherable but i ploughed on and some how made it through.

There did seem to be a lot of not particularly steep climbing. And i thought i was going to run out of water, luckily i met a couple of motorcyclists stopped at the top of the Observatory who offered me a bottle. With this i had enough water to camp.

Another great start to the day.

I had read there would be meteors last night and there were.

Slowly i descended through the darkness. I saw a group of people on a ledge waiting for sunrise. Its tough going down there are cuts and fissures across the path. I wrong move and you are off the vertical edge.

I was already in a valley snd saw no spectacular sunrise.

I rode through the day as a blurr i am so tired and the sun rips every morsel or energy out

Very tired tonight. Is it bad to suck honey straight from the bottle? Hopefully stop early in a hotel tomorrow. I was so tired last night that at 9pm when i finally laid flat i immediately slept and only woke at 6am.

I’m also confused as Garmin says all my rides are recovery rides an i need to pull my finger out! Let’s get one of them guys down here

When i woke i knew i had overslept but i rammed down some cold porridge and honey and a bit of water. I had limited supply and had to be cautious.

Most of the days ride was up. My legs were weak and i slowly turned over the pedals. I finished my water but lyckily found a church with a tap so i filtered a liter or 2.

Coming out of the canyons was such a thrill. I know I keep going on about loving westerns but 😲😲😲 what a joy to cycle this.

I really was tired and under nourished and under watered. I picked a hotel 3kms off the route and booked it. Unfortunately i was not allowed to cycle the 3 kms as it was motorway so 10kms later and down and up a gorge i finally get to the hotel at 2pm.

Lunch eaten, clothes washed, 7liters of water filtered. Feeling much better. Although i seem to have got a but of a pull in my hanstring, see how it goes tomorrow.

I was in a little bit of a valley close to a stream and in the middle of the night i woke feeling cold. As i was using my quilt as a pillow, i had to modify not easy at that time.

No alarm I woke at 4.30. It takes a little to orientate at that time. I had cold porridge and 2 yoghurts for breakfast expecting to get coffee at a cafe soon.

Packing in the pitchblack with only the headtorch is an eerie experience. But i was up and riding in under an hour.

Soon the route turned off the road onto a track once again my dynamo light blaring out the path but anything outside that beam could be anything. The sliver of a moon giving minimal guidance.

High up through pine covered mountains. It kept going up at a reasonable gradient on a beautiful gravel track. Oh what a great morning.

Then into the terrain of my dreams. Water and wind cut mountains reminiscent of the westerns of my youth. Oh its like riding through a dream. I stopped repeatedly to take photos. Temperatures are now sweltering and concentrated in these narrow valleys.

Wow it was hot and unshaded, i did lie under a tree for a couple of hours. Then i pushed on to Gorafe i celebrated with an ice cream and a lemonade.

Everything told me to get into a hotel, it was 6pm but stupidly i rode on, such a steep climb out but luckily flat after.

Its so desolate here i just selected a flat piece of ground by the side of the track. 8pm still no tent up, but i have consumed food.

Cozy inside my bed my alarm at 4.30, shrill, shakes me from my sleep. Today is going to be a great day. Fruit, water, pack and out the door by 5.30 ish.

City lights make it feel like day but the road winds its way up to and past the Alhambra Palace. Then into the darkness I’m so pleased I organised my dynamo light thank you Christian at Cycle Cycles for sorting this. The route is followable on my Garmin but off road things are more complicated.

I am now on the Badlands Route, most is off road and these 40⁰c temperatures ain’t in my favour. The early mornings are a must. I feel no embaressement or shame about getting off and pushing. A few times I look to see how far I have gone, its so slow and hard going.

For the last few months i have been riding with Glasgow Green Cycle Club i unfortunately have to inform you, off road touring is so much harder than road riding. But i would not feel as good as i do if i hadnt been riding with the club.

I took a little tumble at 2km/h luckily nothing broken or bent.

I was just coasting from path to road, at the transition what i thought was a smooth bit of concrete was actually a dip, deeper than i could handle. I took a tatical dismount, the bike crashed onto the road and i just ran across the road. But when i picked up the bike the chain had moved to the small sprocket of the cassette. And much as i tried i could not get it to budge, none of the levers would change it. I was particularly frustrated, and worried. It seems the chain had shifted into the small cog while the internals thought it was in the big cog, i did some jiggery pokery and it all came together.

I rode out of the town full of water/fruit and pizza. But its all up and after an hour or 2 i got to the camp site i had been aiming for. But it was closed so i cycled on. Eventually stopping by the side of the road. It was 1.30 and just too hot to carry on. I lay in the dirt and ate more fruit.

90 mins later. I rode the last 2.5kms to the top 1800meters high

Look at those views worth ever second of the torturous climb. The down was mostly off road twisting and turning with the mountains.

I found a spot in a field about 150meters from the road. It’s relatively sheltered. The temperature is still up in the high 30s. I’m loath to put up my tent till dusk despite the seclusion, it’s just a cautions thing.

Bring on tomorrow… im supposed to be doing 100kms. I think that’s unlikely.

No pictures of the camp spot, way too dark. But i do believe a few ants got into the tent i have no idea from where. Surely there is not a hole in it already, that would be saddening.

I woke in the dark, about 6.30, that jet lag still there. I really was so tired last night i fell to sleep immediately. Yesterday was an initiation kick. Luckily i did do most of the ups and today was mainly down.

The ride today exemplified all things i hold dear and value in my touring. It wasn’t easy, the ups were still challenging and the views from the top were spectacular, hot arrid landscape parched brown by the fierce sun. Rows and rows of olive trees. Twice i stopped in small towns once for Tostadas y tomates and once for churos and chocolate. 2 of my simple and greatest of pleasures. I travel for the pleasure of going to different places, not for the spectacular.

Then on into Granada. My gears are rattling and i am sitting drinking OJ as a mechanic sorts them 🤞. He cocked it up. I was angry 😡. I went to another shop, he diagnosed derailleur hanger bent….. I’m not 100% sure as he didn’t do the shimano computer gear set up. Anyway it seems to be ok now, let’s see what tomorrow brings.

When i leave home and do my bike setup i think its perfect but when i actually get cycling many of the positions of clothes/equipment I thought were good are actually not, so i have juggled everything a bit.

And as an early birthday treat I am staying in a hotel. I hope to be out in the wilderness tomorrow night for my actual birthday.

I got up thought it was 6… it was 7, then i faffed a bit. Got outside, leaving the A/C is like opening an oven and carrying a 27kg box i was sweating in seconds. But an hour later the bike was ready. Then i faffed a bit more. Cruised to Manoli’s for 2 coffees and Tostadas y tomates, oh the joy, my favourite but i forgot to ask for garlic but delicious all the same.

Straight through the center of Malaga to the coast

I thought this bike path should be good. But steps 🤦

I moved to the road. More cars, of course, but I can ride. I popped into a bike shop to pump up my tyres, you know I’m obsessed by the exact pressure, but found they were perfect. Rode away, discovered a nut missing from the mini rack, returned to bike shop, they had a nut. Left the shop discovered the front tyre had gone down a bit, too embaressed to go back to the shop so pumped stsnding in the blazing sun.

The road turned inland and time ticked past 1 o’clock the temperature was so high. I drink, each time i stop i physicslly cannot put any more fluid into my distended stomach.

In the house in Glasgow there is some factor 30 which i left as i thought it too low. I’m real happy i bought the factor 50 at the airport. I just smother it all over. I may have to do under my shirt as well just in case

I knew the road would go up, i am way under prepared, regularly i have to get off and walk, (blisters on both heels now) the combination of the gradient and the heat. I did stop and lie under a tree to sleep, when i got up i noticed it was 5.30, where had the day gone. Twice I stopped at fountains and soaked shirt/gloves/helmet and self.

I knew as soon as i started to walk that i wouldn’t make my proposed campsite. Then when i went into a section of off road i was fully done for. At thet point i started to search for a camp spot. I searched a few places but everywhere is so sloping. Eventually i found a spot at about 8, a bit close to the road and a bit visable, but flat.

Bit of food, more water and lie down. Pretty sure i won’t have to use the sleeping bag. Finally 9.30 its cooling down.

As always flying with a bike is stressful. But a 17.00 departure time makes it pretty leisurely. I packed the bike up last night. Tetras skills necessary. But 27kgs plus s small bag. I think despite my vigilance and efforts to go ultra light the bike and bags are going to weigh the same as before. Grrrrrrrrrr.

Taxi turned up on time. Booked taxi in Malaga to the hotel.

I looked out the window of the plane. Already i can see a myriad of whit roads. Begging me to ride them.

Plane took off late but arrived on time. The passport queue was long but moved fast. My bike was waiting for me as i got to the carrousel, the taxi driver had a note with my name on took me straight to the hotel. Hotel owner advised me where I could eat.

It’s all going way too smooth for my liking. 🤔

And the temperature could not be more perfect. I think the taxi driver thought i was mad as my face lit up in an inane grin, i can feel the excitement rising.