Category: Thailand 🇹🇭 Jan/Feb 2025

Daily Stats

Distance: 92kms

Time: 5 hours 51 mins

Elevation: 2098 meters

Speed: 15.8 kph

Accumulated Elevation: 28231 meters

Accumulated Distance: 1907 kms

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Daily Disasters

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Absolutely brutal day of climbing. As always it all  starts so beninly twists and turns taking me past beautiful temples

After that it just goes up, sometimes shallow sometimes near vertical,  there were some nice views

I past a waterfall where I had a longer break.

I had not booked any accommodation as I was not sure how I would fair today. But I selected a town that was supposed to have a homestay.

The last climb was absolutely brutal. My cadence was down to 40-45rpm travelling hardly faster than a walk.  I thought i did well but the heat and the gradient up to 21% eventually took my legs and mind away, I dismounted and suffered the abject humiliation of walking (again). Luckily only for a short spell.

I eventually got to the town and stopped for a iced cocoa drink. The girl at the counter kindly phoned the Homestay,  closed today,  but she said there were rooms  near the petrol station. I got there and waited hopefully eventually a guy arrived and showed me the room….. I would have said yes to anything. As it is, it’s just ok. I really don’t think I could have ridden uphill for another 20 kms to the next town. But………. tomorrow is another day.

Daily Stats

Distance: 77kms

Time: 4 hours 32 mins

Elevation: 1559 meters

Speed: 17.1 kph

Accumulated Elevation: 26133 meters

Accumulated Distance: 1815 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. I accidentally booked the guesthouse for last night.

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I woke early and made my way to the dining /reception. No one was there, so I waited eventually someone turned up made me a hot chocolate and I left without breakfast.

The ride was once again spectacular an am fully into what’s called the Mae Hong Son Loop. It’s a circuit that starts in Chiang Mai then follows a road that incorporates the town of Mai Hong Son. Its about 400kms long, it winds through valleys and over mountains. There are teak plantations. Lush green undergrowth covering everything.

I met an English couple who had ridden from UK over an 18months or so period (no pictures 🤦) thrn I met Johnas who had cycled from Finland also over an 18 month period. All 3 looked skinny.

Just when I got into Mae Hong Son a change to my normal routine of going straight to my guesthouse I went to a resturant. As I was there I noticed a message from Bookings.com saying I didn’t turn up at the guesthouse last night, 🤦 doh I had booked the wrong night. I immediately messaged the guesthouse but no reply so I cycled there 5kms. Unfortunately they were full. But they did recomend another a couple of kms away.

Daily Stats

Distance: 0

Time: 0

Elevation: 0

Speed: 0

Accumulated Elevation: 24574 meters

Accumulated Distance: 1738 kilometers

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Daily Disasters

1. I cut my toe.

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So last night at 3am I made an excursion to the bathroom. It seems nearly all rooms in Thailand do not have light or light switches by the bed. The room has a double hazard a small step and a concrete water barrier. I forgot both. Tripped down the step and very luckily grabbed hold of the door frame and lulled myself upright,  but in the effort I scraped my toe on the concrete barrier. I didn’t really notice untill I was walking back to the bed and saw a puddle of dark red blood on the floor

I was so lucky to have grabbed the door frame otherwise it would have been a whole lot worse.

I walked past 2 laundry shops on the way home last night making a note of where they were for the next morning. After my landlady sorted my foot I walked into town with my laundry,  walked past both laundry shops and nearly out the other side of town. Luckily I found them on the way back 🤦

Daily Stats

Distance: 41 kms

Time: 2 hours 32 mins

Elevation: 1089 meters

Speed: 16.2 kph

Accumulated Distance: 1738 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. Zero

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I didn’t put my alarm on and so slept till just past 7am. Got to breakfast, first person at about 7.45.

I loitering enjoyably in my room with the doors wide open it was bliss. And in the morning so much quieter than the raucous evening.

Riding out at about 10.30. Already quite warm. But what a spectacular ride. Just a short 20kms up and 20kms down. The views were fantastic and the road wound its way around the mountain. There were some particularly sharp kicks in there 17/18/19% I had to put some real work in. And when I got to the top my legs were happy for the rest. 

Then it was down down down to my homestay…. for a 2 night rest.

Daily Stats

Distance: 129kms

Time: 6 hours 35 mins

Elevation: 2141 meters

Speed: 19.6 kph

Accumulated Distance: 1697 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. I got to Pai

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My room was itself OK but it’s situation initially the Thumping music till 7pm. Then the traffic till 11 or midnight. But after my bad sleep the night before I slept soundly till 6.30. I packed and left at about 7 No-one was about so I left the key in the inside of the door.

I cycled round looking for some breakfast. Stuffed my pockets and rode on. I knew today would be hard and I was getting confused whether to stay 2 nights in Pai.

There were 2 big climbs today. The first I was fresh and fully fueled so I hardly noticed it. But the second was bigger about 1400meters and of course I was already tired from the first. I did stop at what I thought was the top but I still had a fair way to go. But at the stop booked a plush hotel for the night, I think Tet snd tge weekend has pushed prices up and sll the cheap properties had gone. I even say a bed in a dormitory at £25, exorbitant. 

Anyway the last 30kms were mainly downhill or flat so I smashed it to the hotel.

I went out for a meal at 6.30. Luckily got s seat and was fully fed by 7.30. I washed the streets to see the vibe.

I walked quickly back to my hotel and sat in my room. Music is blearing on all 4 sides.

Daily Stats

Distance: 88kms

Time: 3 hours 35 mins

Elevation: 604 meters

Speed: 24.5 kph

Accumulated Distance: 1568 kms

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Daily Disasters

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My little resort was so quiet and tranquil I was reluctant to leave. I did for some reason wake up in the middle of the night and could not get back to sleep.

Eventually I had breakfast at a out 8 am and was on the road by 8.30. It seems tobe the general rule flat with a bump in the middle. Last night I went out and loaded up on ride snacks and my pockets looked decidedly like a pack horse.

My route would it’s way from a flatish plain into a valley surrounded by verdant mountains. I stopped often to snack or drink. 

Each day I pass temples I just cannot take pictures of them all or I woukd not get anywhere.  But as you can see they are so impressive.  And as a general rule I do like gold as a colour.

Last night I booked a place. I took a punt as it didn’t have any reviews. The place is ok physically but it seems to be surrounded by heavy base music. I can feel no deep happening tonight.

Daily Stats

Distance: 86kms

Time: 4 hours 5 mins

Elevation: 849 meters

Speed: 21.2 kph

Accumulated Distance: 1480 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. None.

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I had to work real hard to remember my homestay from last night, but slowly it sank in how good it was. Set away from the road it was a piece of tranquility.  And the bed was a futon so I had a good sleep.

I twirled around town for some breakfast and disappointingly ended up at 7 Eleven. I’m am always dissatisfied coming out of that shop.

The route was flat,  had a large climb then flat again. But it was a pleasant day. The overcast dismal weather has blown away and its a bit warmer….. I believe its going to get hotter from now on.

These kids were campaigning at the side of the road celebrating Chinese New Year and collecting money for a new driveway into their school. I look like a fish out of water without my bike

Daily Stats

Distance: 85 oms

Time: 3 hours 39 mins

Elevation: 308 meters

Speed: 23.2 kph

Accumulated Distance: 1395 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. 🤔 I think none

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Some days are filler days and today was one of those.  That’s not to say there were no highlights of course there were.  But the route was flat, a couple of little bumps but I hardly noticed them.

Yesterday I did a little adjustment to my saddle and I think it is better.

The day was overcast and after breakfast at the guesthouse. I started down the road. Popped into a 7 Eleven bought a sim, i am now fully dataed up for the next 2 weeks, when I came out of the shop I turned back the way I had come and it was only seeing my guesthouse again that I realised I was travelling the wrong direction. Doh!

Less than 5 kms I arrived at the Golden Triangle this is the meeting point of Laos 🇱🇦/ Thailand 🇹🇭/ and Burma 🇲🇲.  And famous for its Opium poppy growing. There is also an opium museum which was interesting.

Some of these are not actually of the Golden Triangle Wats but of other Wats along the route. I really has been a spectacular day for wats.

After the Golden Triangle I sped on. I hadca great soup lunch

And arrived at my homestay at about 2. It would have been earlier but I stopped a few times to watch the world go by.