Category: Vietnam 🇻🇳 Jan 2025

Daily Stats

Distance: 120kms

Time: 6 hours 40 minutes

Elevation: 1845 meters

Speed: 18.1 kph

Accumulated Distance: 528 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. Set my insta360 at the wrong angle. Grrrrr
2. The back saddlebag strap that secures the load into the holster, slipped of at least 3 times causing near disaster.

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I woke just before my alarm ready and out tge door just at 8am, Raul had already left. I went into Winmart and bought some yoghurt and fruit for my journey then set off in search of a bakery. I bought two things, a cheese melt thing that to my surprise had sausage in and sweet bread. 🤮 I ate half. A spongy, creamy, fruit thing that was quite nice.

I had a choice for my 120km route today. One was 1800m of climbing and the other was 6000m of climbing I wimped and took the lesser. Pathetic I hear you say, but I’m pretty sure you know that of me by now, you can rest assured I’m disapointed in myself as well.

As it was the route was spectacular. Some pretty taxing climbs. At times the route took me off road.

I set my insta360 on my shirt hoping that location would make it easier for me to activate it when I desired to film. It definitely did and the videoing i did would have been spectacular. Unfortunately I did not give it a quick check of the angle, as a consequence I got some spectacular filming of my handlebars

This is a sad condensation of approximately 20mins of filming I did do.

At least I did a video with the phone.

The off road sections would have been fantastic. The route followed the valley of the Nam Rom river. The banks stretching near vertical into the mountains. All covered in banana trees and rubber plantations. 

Such a great ride today.

As I rode into town I met 2 Dutch cyclists and a German guy talking at the side of the road, I butted in for a drink and we met later in the evening for the weirdness meal ever. The company was great Arco and Anne are a well travelled pair also having ridden in my dream destination of South America, I was soooooooo jealous. Evenings are short and there is never time to glean enough information.

We ordered stuff but only half of it arrived, we ordered more but only some turned up. Its hard to describe correctly how the evening went. Luckily the conversation was carried us through.

https://share.garmin.com/acoupleofdaysrideoutta remember to follow my tracker.

Daily Stats

Distance: 68 kms

Time: 3 hours 42 minutes

Elevation: 1181 meters

Speed: 18.6 kph

Accumulated Distance: 408 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. I forgot to turn my Garmin tracker off do when I went to turn it in there was so battery 🤦

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The little window on the way to the lift I saw this, the georgeous mountains I was about to ride up and perfect unadulterated blue sky. Joy was written all over my face. 

Breakfast done, bike clothes donned I was out the door riding….. but not very far.

I consumed a last Starbucks decaf.

The route went immediately up, and steep, i was definately puffing.

The ride went up continuously in a series of 10% kicks. With various stops for pictures.

Eventually my reaching the ‘Heavens Gate’ was commemorated by this golden statue

This glass bottoned sky walkway was up a 28% gradient climb,  I declined.

From the statue onwards it was all downhill, and as with climbing it was in 10% drops. The views were mountainous and spectacular.

There were s few flat parts but lots of down.

Children shouting Hello. The route got bumpy in places.

Eventually getting to Kao Cai my destination. I booked a hotel. Rocked in and had a siesta.

I thought this town was just a small blip on the map, but it seems there are massive buildings for what purpose I have no idea

I went for a walk and just as I was getting back to the hotel I spotted a guy near a bike. We talked and 10 mins later Raul and I were walking to a local resturant and having a fantastic meal together. He was an interesting guy. He gave me a few insights as to what to expect in Laos. Its so good meeting other cyclists serendipitously.

Daily Stats

Distance: 0

Time: 0

Elevation: 0

Speed: 0

Accumulated Distance: 340

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Daily Disasters

1. Forgot my rucksack in a resturant.. passport…. money 🤦.
2. Bus had a puncture.

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I was at a bit of a loss as to what to do with my bike on my trips to Ha Noi. But on ny first night in Sa Pa I ate in an Italian resturant, somehow I got talking to Michelle and Bach and they offered to look after my bike on my trips. I cannot express how grateful I am for this kind offer.

Hanoi

We are building up to Tê’t which is on 29th January. Vietnam’s (lunar) new year festival.

I went out for a curry last night, it was decidedly average, then I went put around town just sightseeing the night market. Maybe an hour later I realised my rucksack was not on my back 🤦. Of course by this time I had forgotten the resturant and was an hours walk away. I sprinted back in the direction I came,  I had found the resturant on Google maps luckily I refound it snd the owner handed back my bag, passport and dollars all inside.

This morning I got up way too early and ambled to the Laos embassy getting to it exactly at 8am unfortunately they don’t open till 8.30am. Ambling about the town at that time is fun. People dancing in the parks

Getting back to the Laos embassy I get inside already 8 or 9 people inside. Fill out the form, which border are you crossing/where are you staying/when are you entering, stick the passport photo on the form. (There are rumours about the size of photo being important) I handed the form in, the guy said nothing about the photo size….. come back at 1.30pm pay the $40 then collect the passport with visa. Interestingly I was not the only person who had returned to Hanoi having been refused at the border crossing.

The Embassy districts are always affluent so I searched out a Starbucks (once again I have to emphasise I do love a coffee and Starbucks are the only place that sells decaf, otherwise Never)!

On the bus journey back to SaPa we always stop at a service station. There is always time to get some food. I grabbed a few bits and started to eat, then saw my bus rolling out, I ran towards it waving and I saw a German girl I had been talking to running towards it, the bus just drove off and we were left staring at each other stranded, but there were a few others and we stood for about 30 mins waiting all extremely nervous as we had left all our stuff in the bus.  It did eventually turn up having changed a wheel. There was much relief amoungst us all.

I hope to be back on the road riding tomorrow. What time I set off depends on what time I get in tonight. My bike is still at the Italian Restaurant. We’ll see what happens.

Daily Stats

Distance: 0

Time: 0

Elevation: 0

Speed: 0

Accumulated Distance: 340 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. Should have stayed in Hanoi

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Yesterday (Friday 10/Jan/2025) I made a whistle-stop trip to Hanoi. That in itself was successful and I completed my desired business with positive results.

As I was successful I jumped onto the bus back to Sa Pa. I then tried to book the same hotel as before, it was full so I had to find another one. Grrrrrrr.

Then I joined a SEA cycling Info group. I posed a question about a visa at the Taichang border crossing into Laos. I had anticipated an evisa or Visa on arrival (VoA) would do, unfortunately it is a paper visa only. The only place I can get this is at the Laos 🇱🇦 embassy in Hanoi. So I now have to schlep back to Hanoi on Sunday/Monday (another two 6 hour bus rides) then a long wait at the embassy to get the visa. I’m frustrated, to say the least. But it just shows what a bit more research could have avoided. It’s my own f’ing fault. I have booked what seems like a fancy hotel in Hanoi because it’s 🇻🇳 VND648 000 and it sort of is fancy but this astronomical large number works out to be a smidg over £20, so pretty damn reasonable for a hotel in a capital city.

I am regularly getting confused with the large denominations. As Simon and Sheryl (my brother and his partner) will attest to after a Christmas board game mental disaster I have very little ability at mental arithmetic.  I believe at one point I may have given a £20 tip for my £4 haircut 🤦. I do use a currency converter app but when buying stuff it’s not always convenient to get it out.  Then sometimes you find yourself negotiating over 20pence which is 🇻🇳 VND6195.

Also it seems, I have seen or I read somewhere, in SEA (South East Asia) there is a respectful way of handing over money and or goods.

Which as you can see looks pretty disrespectful in comparison. I am endeavouring to clean up my ways and be a bit more respectful and organised. It’s a slow process.

It’s pretty miserable weather here at 2000meters. Rainy, damp, sodden feet, the views are obliterated by mist, the cablecar up to Fansipan peak has been cancelled due to the weather. I am just hanging around in Starbucks (only place with decaf).

Daily Stats

Distance: 0

Time: 0

Elevation: 0

Speed: 0

Accumulated Distance: 340 kms

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Daily Disasters

1. It rained lots

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Thank-you Thank-you Thank-you May at the HeLLo Sapa Hotel for allowing me to download the South East Asia maps onto my Garmin via your computer. Whoop Whoop

I wandered about all day with not a lot to do. As promised it rained most of the day.  There is supposed to be a lot of beauty about but really at the moment it’s rain/misted out. I may stay another day to see if I can get the views.

I also have to admit I went into Starbucks.  I know it’s mad and bad. They are the only place that serves decaf coffee, probably in all of Vietnam.

I had lasagna tonight…. that’s Italian food 2 nights running.

Daily Stats

Distance 57kms

Time 4 hours 38 minutes

Elevation 1829meters

Speed 12.5 kph

Accumulated distance 340 kms

Daily Disasters

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I was so tired last night. I talked to for a bit to my fellow Italian resident then at about 8 both of us went to bed. I really went to sleep immediately.

I woke as he was leaving at about 6am then got up and had breakfast at 8.

I was on the road and cycling by 8.15am

A shortish distance but a fair few meters of climbing. The first 20kms were flatish then the next 37 were climbing.

This really should have been a spectacular ride the route winding itself like a sinuous snake around the mountains, waterfalls cascading down, and lush verdant foilage encasing the mountain faces. As it was fog then mist then rain completely obliterated everything.

At one time I was hammering down a steep decline and every time I went over a bumpy patch I thought I could hear ducks quacking in my ear.  Then as I hit the next inevitable incline a motorbike went past with hundreds of ducks stuffed into a basket on the back.

I just put my head down and worked slowly and deliberately. I did stop a few times, and when the gradient spiked a few times I certainly did have to work hard and then stop to recover. Eventually I stopped for an egg sandwich, checked the potential weather, saw it was going to rain all tomorrow so promptly booked another night at the hotel. At this point 15kms to go about 90mins at the pace I had been travelling, it’s a slow old grind going up hill.

Anyway as it happened it was a little shallower and I was finished within the hour.

Here are 2 short videos. Please draw your own conclusions as to what I think of Sa Pa.

My daily tracker every 10 minutes

Daily Stats

Distance 128kms

Time 6 hours 19 mins

Elevation 1242meters

Speed 20.2kph

Accumulative distance 283 kms

Daily Disasters

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I searched my heart out but try as I may I couldn’t find any accommodation closer than 120kms away. So the stage was set for a long shift. I set my alarm for 7.45 and went to bed early. Unfortunately sleep eluded me till about 3am when I slept for a brief period and woke at about 6.30.

I got up showered and packed. 

I started off down the busy streets. I sorted the route out last night so easy to tap the buttons and follow the line. Which is what I did.

The first half of the route was flat then a pretty intense blip then flat till close to the end and a sharp rise to the bnb.

I stopped intermittently.

Then as I got near the middle elevation the road became completely off road and quite rough.

At about ⅓ through the ride, instead of being pancake there a set of 10% climbs, I knew they were 10% as there was always a sign telling me. These went on for a considerable length of time, some on some off road. I was knackered as the road turned west and we approached the last steep section. It was steep it was longer than expected.

But eventually I found myself arriving at this weird bnb. Food was a bit yucky.

I met an Italian nurse riding Vietnam for 20 days on a motorbike,  he was friendly and nice.

The room had a bed but was devoid of any other furniture.  Sitting on the floor to eat wasn’t easy.

I started on a bit of a mission today with 2 things to complete.

1. Download SEA maps
2. Find some gloves

Unfortunately I am real suffering with not getting to sleep due to illness and jetlag. So when I woke at 10am I had missed having breakfast with Jarek and Emila (spelt correctly now 🙂) I was absolutely gutted about.

I had my breakfast then ambled down into town, aiming for a gaming shop, (egames not betting). There were young kids behind the desk and it’s real hard to explain even with Google translate exactly what I wanted. But a bit older guy came along and helped he just breezed through my garbled information and did it all easily.

Unfortunately I failed to achieve downloading the maps. But it gave me hope that it can be done. I have solicited my technical advisor Andy…. he’ll know the answer.

Then on the way back to the Homestay I decide to get my hair cut. I told him to do whatever he wanted.

Now looking sharp.

I had gone into multiple sportsish shops looking for gloves then I went into a shop with 2 women stringing badminton rackets in the window. I didn’t hold out much hope but I asked and they produced some, what look like weight training gloves. I cut off the funny wrist straps. They should be OK. I’ll give an update tomorrow.

I was impressed by 2 feats of scooter mastery and skill today

I’m not overly sure I want this done with a window open to the public

So 50% of mission completed.

Daily Stats

Distance 75 kms

Time 4 hours 11 mins

Elevation 554meters

Speed 18.1 Kph

Accumulative distance 155kms

Daily Disasters

• After 2 days I realise I have not downloaded South East Asia into my Garmin. Just a blank screen with a like across it. 🤦

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So desperate to get out of that hotel, not only was I ill but every moment I felt dirty. I sefinatly ridnt have the energy to leave yesterday so I was stuck.  I hardly slept last night so at about 8am I was on the road.  The owner was extremely friendly so a small ray of light.

I knew the route was flatish so off I pootled. 

Eventually I got to my accommodation

There was a couple from Bristol, Jared snd Emila at the accommodation, I enjoyed my evening meal with them. They had been travelling for 5 weeks along some of the route I was going so I picked their brains. I forgot to tell them I was getting back to my room to watch Bristol Bears play.

I’m going to stay 2 nights hereto finish my recuperation.

https://share.garmin.com/acoupleofdaysrideoutta always follow my every 10minuites dots.

Standing over the toilet bent double retching my guts out, then turning round to sit on the toilet. This pattern repeated itself throughout the night. Oh definately nothing fun going on here. I got some sleep then repeated this sequence throughout the night. The pain in my stomach was really not fun.

Eventually I took some Imodium with a sip of water that I could keep down which helped the situation. This helped me to get some sleep, but I went in and out of sleep consciousness getting up at what I thought was 10am but was actually 2pm.

My body desperately dehydrated I went out to find a 7Up or Sprite but could only find a fizzy orange drink. I sat down and drank 3 of the 6

There is a massive crossroads just outside my window the lorries instead of stopping blare on their horns as they come through. The cacophony of noise is traumatic to bare with the headache I now have.

There will definitely be no food passing my lips today, just the thought makes my stomach convulse.

Being ill and alone in a very foreign country is a tough gig. Everything is alien, the sound, the food, the voices, the drink. And no-one to talk to. It’s lonely and fearful. I’m really not happy.

The next town is bigger its only about 55kms I will try to ride there tomorrow. It’s flat and hopefully I can find some boring western food like a bun or roll.