Category: Vietnam 🇻🇳

As a general rule I do 6 days riding and 1 day off. This keeps me sane and happy. I know if this sequence gets out of sync then anger seems to permeates every aspect of my life.

I got up this morning and it was rain well pouring. I was angry about that. Putting the bags on my bike wasn’t as slick as usual and i got wet. I was angry about that. My breakfast coffee was strong and bitter, i put sugar in it, mmmmmmm nice no anger there.

The homestay hosts were so congenial, they waved me off in the 5 minutes of non rain period.

There were a few hills on my way, not particularly taxing. But the extra effort made my already raw rubbing area twinge with a stinging pain i was not happy with.

I rode through towns looking for porential coffee stops eventually settling on my favourite Milano Coffee House. I was angry it took so long.

I can ride through a whole town looking for drink stops. Every small shop looks like a potential, but there is no fridge, or they don’t have the drink i want or what looks like a mini mart turns out to be a nail bar, some places just look too dirty to want to stop at. I rode through 2 maybe 3 towns in a row, desperate for a drink but just not finding one.

I rode hard today. But the horns were so loud making me angry, mopeds riding so close making me angry, loug packs of motobikes and mopeds making me angry. No one knows or cares its all in my head. I shout at everyone and everything. 😠

Luckily I got to my hotel having completed 106kms by 2pm. I knew i was angry and i knew why 14 days straight and just over 1200kms. I am well and truly pooped.

I had a brief message conversation with a friend who suggested I check days and kms before i leave Vietnam. 440kms and 6 days. But its going to be very mountainous (1700m up) in the next 2 days riding. But i made a decision to take a day off. So its 440kms in 5 days (thats 88kms a day) but there are some slight complications with distances between hotels, but well overcome that when we get to it.

I’m trying to get away from Strava. Which stat/map graphic do you think is best?

200 meters from the hotel i sat down to order my coffee.

So humid today, the sky threatened rain constantly. Hills were thrown in to make me put some effort in. But still hugging the coastline.

My route took me along a narrow concrete path. No cars only a few mopeds. And the gradient of the climbs to get me over the mountains were steep enough to get my back wheel spinning underneath me.

Half way through the ride i booked into a homestay and with the wind blowing on my i arrived at 2. My saddle is not particularly being my friend so sespite doing 110kms the early stop is helping me recover.

As i was riding i felt a few drops of rain, but nothing came of it but the home stay owner said it had poured on the homestay half an hour before i got here. A lucky miss. But this evening it again poured down. I’m nervous about tomorrow.

I was sad to leave my Lavender Homestay. They had been kind to me and very generous.

I rode and rode, my ass is hurting snd i sm feeling a bit jaded. But i just ploughed on. The sea to my left. There were aome quite good sites but i just didnt take pictures.

I eventually got to my hotel in Quy Nhon. I did not really notice the sun being out but i was a bit burnt, I’ll remember to put on sun screen tomorrow. The problem with being by the sea is that most restaurants only sell sea food. 🤢 really not my friend.

For lunch i bought a big dumpling, no idea what was in it but i could only eat half. I eventuslly opted for packet of beef flavoured crisps and a yoghurt.

In the evening i had rice with soy sauce and chillis. I kniw not that inspiring, but somehow im just being able to stomach anything else.

After my rice i went for a walk around the town. It was really buzzing. I sauntered up to a stsge snd waited anfmd hoped.

I organised myself a short 80km day today. So after eating my usual 4 yoghurts and pack my bags. I felt rearing to go.

Downstairs the hotel owner gave me a bright envelope with a little cash in it. He said it was tradition. I was deeply touched.

I didn’t have far to go for my morning coffee. The woman serving said no hot coffee so I opted for a sweet iced one. I’m now a fan. I also have fallen for a Vietnamese coffee chain called Milano Coffee. Not like me to be susceptible to chain shops but 🤷‍♂️ that’s the way it goes sometimes.

The road was flat and I pummelled the 80kms to the Lavender Hotel just after midday. The lady gave me my room key and I immediately asked for a meal. So I showered and ate eggs rice and a little vegetables.

I spent the rest of the afternoon lounging on my bed. I’m resting my legs, honest.

Then just after 5.30 the hotel owner brought me a meal. Brocoli, beans and mushrooms, rice and a very sticky rice thing, with a chilli 🌶 soy sauce. I really cannot say how much I enjoy rice with soy sauce.

The homestay was run by an Italian guy and his Vietnamese partner. He was friendly and talkative which I liked.

My room was great. I slept OK as usual. In the morning I distinctly heard an English accent so I went out to see who was talking… of course ihave forgotten his and his partners name. But he lived in Goring, which is close to where I lived in UK.

He did persuade me to ride into Hoi An using its World Heritage Site status as an incentive. I was definitely not disappointed. Its new years eve and it was bustling with people/mopeds/cars/bikes/etc. So many red ribbons, lanterns and it seems buying specific plants is a new year must. I did not find out exactly what plants.

I fo course started with a coffee then ended with a coconut coffee. Just cold coffee with coconut sorbet in it. I’ll definitely have it again

I eventually bit the bullet and moved out. 100+ kms to cover. I left at about 10. I followed the komoot route which took me through slight back roads. And although this is entertaining and there are a good few temples along the way. The track is concrete and it looks smooth but the road chatter vibrating up through the bars eventually becomes too much for my wrists. So I moved to a parallel road that was not actually open yet so was empty. Way in front I saw a person on a touring bike. Do I put the pedal to the metal and chased him down. It was Craig also on a month tour of Vietnam. We chatted for 30 mins or so it’s great to exchange thoughts and ideas with fellow cycle tourists.

Eventually he turned off to his designated hotel and I ploughed on. I had not quite decided where I was going to stay.

I sorted out my guest house for the night and rode on. I’m sort of liking this stopping at around 4 it gives me enough time to relax.

I spied an Indian restaurant on Google but on the way there I nearly passes a Chinese restaurant but popped in. Had a great meal. Then on the way home I was offered ganja at least 4 times, I of course politely refused.

I woke at about 6.30 and was out the door by 7.30 supping a coffee just across the street. My hotel had been great.

My route meandered out of Hue. Temples and views were splendiferous. I am now at full strength all remnants of my illness have gone.

I had to search quite hard for a coffee shop but this one was great. I think maybe half the amount of coffee would have made it nicer but I put sugar and a little condensed milk in and it suddenly became exceedingly palatable.

The road I was on went through a 200meter tunnel, then threatened to go through another, luckily there was a scenic alternative that went over the mountain. Then I turned off the main road and took a small path along the sea. This leads to the Hai Van Pass, one of the main reasons I wanted to do this section, it was suggested by a couple I met in Ninh Binh. The pass is about 500meters high and 10kms long. I know I said I was fully recovered I’m definitely not used to mountains 🥵. But the road was good the views were beautiful, I got waved at by lots of people that made me feel good.

At the bottom of the pass is Da Nang, I could have stopped that would have been my daily 100kms. But it was 1 30 and what would I do for the rest of the day. So I pedalled on to Hoi An another 40ish kms further on. Komoot did its usual agrovating taking me through every crowded, busy, market filled street. I had to stop and just check out the straighter roads, so worth the 10 mins.

At Da Nang I booked into a Homestay just east of Hoi An. I want out for a meal and had eaten the salad before I remembered I shouldn’t 🤦 here’s hoping I’m not ill again. But the noodles and broth were tasty.

The noise curfew in Vietnam I’d 10pm so the karaoke stopped at 10 on the dot, such a relief.

I woke early feeling good packed, paid and out the door by just before 8. I liking getting going early in the morning. It brings me back to an accustomed rhythm.

The weather went pretty overcast then a down drizzle which was pretty unpleasant. Fortunately the temperature is warm enough.

I saw a bus stopped at a petrol station. I went in, fired up my Google translate: Are you the driver? Are you going to Hue? The first of these 2 questions was affirmative but the second he just looked blank. And as many times as I rephrased he still looked blank. Eventually I just rode off. Got to say I was a little frustrated.

Then after 46kms and was just sitting by the road and a person waved down a bus. I ran to talk to the driver, he was keen, he was going to Hue. But the bike just would not fit into the hold full of what looked like oranges.

I waited and tried to flag down some other busses but to no avail. Then as I said to myself, just one more bus then I’m cycling. A bus came and stopped. We negotiated that they were going to Hue. Flipped open the hatch and slid the bike in. I had to take off my shoes and socks and put them into a bag provided. I was shown bunk and looked down the bus, only one other bunk was occupied. And I was told all busses were full. Its comfortable so I’m happy. They stung me for 800,000vnd (about £25) little do they know I would have paid nearly anything.

The busses (and or any vehicle big or driver arrogant enough) style os to find the middle of the road and hoon it down as fast as desirable and anyone in the way or any junction is to hoot the horn with various aggressiveness blasts to make sure everyone gets out the way. It seems to workout is not particularly conducive to me sleeping.

As we move south the roads are wetter and the clouds look pregnant with rain, but its holding off for the moment.

I booked an hotel from the bus. It was 15 kms from the bus drop off to the hotel straight through the sights of the town

At a shade over £10 my hotel last night was cheap but the carpet was so horrible at no point did I put my feet on it. I slept in my sleeping bag liner and the water did not drain away from the shower floor. 🤢

On the road by 8.30 another flat riding day. I had covered 80kms by 12. Finally I dis get off the main road I was on and rode a coastal road. Flat fast and quiet.

I decided to splash out on an expensive hotel £13. So at about 4pm I rolled up to The White Palace in Ha Tinh. Its big and imposing.

At 5 I walked to a supermarket to buy a few supplies, while shopping I met a South African guy who suggested a resturant close. He sat down as well and consumed a great meal.

We parted company and I walked back to the hotel and lay on the bed thinking of sleep. It was then I checked my clock and discovered it was only 7pm. After reading a bit. My worst nightmare happened a Karaoke machine cranked up, loud enough to vibrate my room. Grrrrrrrrr. Now where are those earplugs.

Casually ambling down to breakfast at my usual 8.55. And ordered coffee, eggs and a roll.

I then started to look at the trains and discussed with one of the guys at the hotel. He made a couple of phone calls and discovered that the trains were not taking bikes at the moment due to the overcrowding over the (unbeknownst to me) New Year period, actual new year is 22nd January. This lasts a few weeks, hmmm that’s when I am due to leave. We then called the coaches that go up and down the country. Also full and not really liking bikes as they take up too much luggage space.

I am well and truly up the creek without a paddle. 1411 kms to go and 14 maybe 14½ days to do it in. I know we can all work out that’s 100kms a day. Should be easy really. A lot of this route is flat with only a few mountain near the end. Having not done that much cycling lately and having been a bit poorly. I feel I have my work cut out.

I got to my hotel just before 5, the woman definitely did not know I was coming so quoted a higher price, I showed her my message from Bookings.com with the price I should pay. See what happens tomorrow morning.

I was walking to a resturant. A small bulldozer came past I gave a little wave, he slowed down and I jumped on. The road is so busy it’s horrible walking. The guy took me the kilometer or so to a resturant. Rice and egg at a shade over a quid was a good price. Then I walked back to the hotel and jumped into bed. Hmmmm 7pm a little early to sleep.

I may be able to get a train or a bus at Da Nang. After about another 400 kms. Also I’ll be able to gauge how I’m feeling then.

As the saying goes, Fortune Favours the Brave.

Aroma, Fine Indian Cuisine. My meal here was so good. I can hardly put into words how ecstatic I am.

I started the day with my usual eggs, bread snd s cup of coffee. Ten having downloaded another route I set of on the 77kms.

Once again meandering classic Vietnamese hills.

I succeed in completing the magic triptych of Cs. Cycling, Coffee and Cake.