Category: Vietnam 🇻🇳

I downloaded a 50km route from Komoot and se out at just after 9.30. It was overcast and promised the same throughout the day. The route meanders its way in a circle following the perimeter of the hills. Its sort of the route that the boats take.

I was pleased with the ride, flat as a pancake. But slowly feeling fitter and a bit stronger despite the flatness of the route.

There was a power cut most of the afternoon. I’m sure I should do more than just lying in bed but 🤷‍♂️ that’s how it goes sometimes.

I had curry last night, not expensive but worth every penny 😍 . Although I still have a very slight, very intermittent cough I am nearly completely rehabilitated. Mind you best I leave just alittle chance or relapse.

I rolled out of the Homestay at just past 9am. And cycled to bottom of Hang Mus. A slow lazy ride in the just appearing sunshine.

I was charges to park my bike and charged to go in.

Vietnam really came through and what with the less than happy start I am over the moon.

Today has been a good day 😃

On inspection of my room, random long hairs and areas of uncleanness 🤢 the trials and tribulations of a cheap night.

But on a cheerier note the room was big and the bed was big.

I left early and cruised into town. Coffee and cake, sorry no pictures of the cake.

Then rode out of town. Once again my route was flat as a pancake. But I knew there was a ferry crossing and any ferry crossing on a bike tour is good.

Then along the route hugged the banks of the river. We’ll away from traffic the reduction in noise was such a joy. Of course this only lasted a short time until I was back on the roads again.

My second cup of coffee. I have no idea how it was made. Soooooooo strong and viscous I could just about stand a spoon up in it, and a sort of green hue to it. I loaded it with 6 spoons of sugar that just made it palatable.

Oh and the sun finally came out, what a joy. I stopped to put suntan cream on, maybe a little late but better late than never.

Once again the location of my hotel was wrong snd it took me into town and I had to ride back out again.

I am here for 2 nights not wanting to push my ability too much and riding on these roads fills my lungs with fumes. I know best I look for some quieter roads.

Packing my bags, I was a little sad to leave the hotel. Last night the proprietor, just after I got back, gave me some fruit, which I appreciated.

Yep there are absolutely no photos of my stay in Thu Ha Hotel.

My ride today was flat and mainly on one road. There was a small 8 km detour but it came back to the main road. So busy lorries/cars/mopeds/electric bikes all hooting their horns so you get out of their way. Really nothing to look at. 😕

My hotel was not located properly so I rode past by 5 kms. I suppose that’s where the extra 10 kms csme from.

My cycling has been minimal. I rode to Cat Ba island, just under 200kms from Hanoi. Then off Cat Ba to Ha Long, about 40kms, where I stayed for 2 nights. I’m now in Uong Bi about 40kms out of Ha Long. The rain has been torrential and this has facilitated me to be able to lie up for a few days.

Being ill while away in a country that minimally speaks English fills me full of fear. I am alone and that in itself is a tough gig. I stayed in my room most of my time in Hanoi and now i am nearly confined to my room due to the rain.

Every time I breathe I hear and feel globules of phlegm in my lungs. I have followed instructions to clear this and each day its getting better. I have also restarted my Wim Hof breathing exercises which are definitely improving. I don’t feel particularly ill or weak and when riding I have felt good.

I am struggling to find food that is palatable. Pizza seems to be winning, I know classic Vietnamese food. Tourist areas are best because of the variety.

Noise is incessant constant traffic horns blowing. Of course I’m close to a road. I have been inefficient in getting to quieter roads.

My research told me that this period is usually cool to warm and dry. I looked at a satellite run for the next few weeks and it seems there is rain, and lots of it, all the way down the coast. Up north is wet and colder.

Further north is the Sapa region and areas around the Chinese border. Beautiful hill towns, terraced rice fields and some of the most beautiful roads in South East Asia. Sadly I feel I will be missing them this time. 😢

I think tomorrow may be more rain. 🤷‍♂️

The little known fact is that I hate drinking water, especially cold water when its not too cold out. Blerrrrr. Boring tasteless. So yesterday when I finished my ride and my pee looks like Tango, I realise I should have drunk more. Then for some reason I don’t drink at the hotel (🤦🤦🤦🤦 What is wrong with you Mark?) Then in the morning pee still looking like a stronger version of Tango and my head is splitting as if about to explode. (🤦🤦🤦 Are you sure there is nothing wrong in your brain) Finally I buy a bottle of water and start to drink.

I rode 100kms + yesterday and although this is not a particularly long distance I have done practically no cycling for 3 months and have been ill, jetlag etc etc, excuses excuses 🤦.

Although the place I booked on the outset looked good, it’s not ideal, but last night it was too late to care and today I’m too tired to care.

Then at 11am a Karaoke machine cranked up soooo loud. I know I have sensitive ears, but really it was loud. On rest days all I usually want to do is lie and read or watch videos.

I have assessed the weather in this region for the next week or so and it’s distinctly bad to average. I may have to readjust my plans. North of here, then going west are some of the most georgeous roads between fantastic mountain hill towns. I will have a little go but I believe the rains will bring the temperatures down to single figures and for someone whose looking for hot and sunny that doesn’t work.

I cruised into Vietnam to be struck down by illness. I have mostly stayed in my room. But also an extra 2 nights.

Fear of illness continuing

Loss of confidence

Loss of ability to succeed in doing the distance

Loss of momentum

Fear of failure

I walked a back street and saw chicken, meat, vegetables being ‘stored’ and what with being ill I didn’t really feel like eating local food (I know it breakes my heart to say this). So I had steak one night and pizza the next. But today for lunch I had a vegetable stir fry deeeeeelitious

I walked around the old town today I just feel sad and disappointed as these once fascinating areas rapidly change to become tourist magnets with all stalls slowly changing to sell what they think tourists want. The Hanoi old town was high on top of lots of Best things to do in Hanoi lists.

I discovered a cash point that gives out more than £75 ( That’s just over 2 Mil Vietnamese Dongh. ) I do find it hard counting out the money, it should be easy about 30 VND to 1£. But that’s s whole lot of zeros and an arithmetic sum I can’t do. I’m sure I’ll get used to it.

Then went to a shrine which was certainly lovely.