Daily Disasters: I hammered a tent pegs into the ground unfortunately additionally into a tree root. I tried with all my might to free it but too no avail. I left it there.
I left the camping at about 7am. A bit later than anticipated. I was looking for a cafe for coffee and croissants. 90mins later I rolled into a small town. Sat down ordered the C and C and immediately it started to pour with rain, perfect timing. Now it’s going to be hard to get out again.
Eventually a lull in the rain I set off then moments later it started to rain and continued to rain till way into the afternoon. I was wet.
I rolled to a campsite. It is one of those places that the music stops and people turn and look at you as you enter. A cheery Hola and all is good.
I put my tent up had a shower then lay down and listened yo the rain on the tent.
I thought I had hardly ridden, but 4 hours and 88kms is a bit of distance.
The rain has been pretty miserable and seriously demotivated me. Pretty sure a couple of days it’ll be a bit sunnier.
Here’s hoping Levi remembered to pay the last camping.
Daily Disasters: I was told I could not pay for 2 nights beforehand and was not allowed to leave before 8am. 🤯😡
I know you missed me yesterday. But I got to the end of the day and was just too lazy. And having a day off today, why not write today.
The day was flat and cruisey. I was hoping to pump out some good Kms. But the weather was rainy in the morning so I stayed in bed till late, by the time I got going I was a bit non plussed, so decided to not go too far and to have a day off.
After 50kms I started looking for a campsite there are so many down this coast, but that makes choosing tougher. The differences are spectacular, offering so much but not what I want. Eventually I lucked out, the site was on the beach.
As I was checking in I asked to pay for 2 nights. The receptionist said no you have to pay on the way out. I explained that I leave at 6 am. She said I couldn’t. I ask again still no. It is at this point that my mind gets a little red misty 😡. I just cannot fathom why they cannot take the money in advance. But there was no budging…. I’m sure by this point my attitude didn’t help. But how stupid are they grrrrrrrrrr. But I will ask later today and see if I can persuade them to take my money now.
Eventually the explanation was that to leave at 6 getting ready to do that starts at 4am or 5am and that’s unsociable to the other campers. We did find a solution, with Levi paying them my money in the morning.
One of my greatest touring pleasures is to be up and riding early before many people are up. Empty roads are such a pleasure.
Coming up (mid August) I have a middling important birthday. So I have been in discussion with Stayer I know it’s early but things take time to order then make. I think I have come to a conclusion as to which wheels I want. To a layperson, of course, they are just wheels, but to me they are heaven sent.
I met Levi, he is cycling to Hungary. I’m really excited about his first long trip abroad. Flew from Bristol to Valencia. We shared a meal and spent a long conversation, another of my pleasures, talking the night away. Good luck for the rest of the trip.
Daily Disasters: I bought way too much and too expensive cheese.
I know, you gotta be careful pronouncing that.
Barcelona is s spectacular city. I made a beeline for Picasso museum always a joy, many of his lesser known works but still great.
On the way back to the hotel I was enticed into the big Central Market. Of course there was a cheese shop and ivspent so much. 🤦
I also bought a new knife to replace the one convescated in Civitavecchia.
The route of course went through Barcelona, travelling south. I left the hotel at about midday. Close to the sea but seldom close enough to see it. Flat and pretty uninteresting. I onow there will be nore interesting rides later on.
I rolled into a campsite forgetting to check it out and forgetting it is Saturday. Lots of weekenders. Lots of noise.
I do have a few days spare and I’m trying to decide what to do with them?
Daily Disasters: Security took my small penknife broke it when opening it then told me it had to be binned. Luckily they didn’t find my tent pegs 😲.
I’m real pleased I did the short ride yesterday to Lake Bracciano. The campsite was pleasant. I went out for a meal which was delicious
I’m glad I had my last proper meal then rather than in Civitavecchia. Leaving a port I’m always stressed, and I do find big port towns a bit sleazy.
I awoke late I didn’t sleep too well, first time this trip.
I went straight to Bracciano town and jumped into the first patisserie shop, it was the most expensive but really delicious.
Then finally found a supermarket with some suntan lotion. Smothered it all over and started my ride. Seriously getting hot now, and starting later than usual at nearly the hottest part of the day is no fun.
I messaged 4 hotels in Barcelona to ask if ok to store my bike. I arrive late on Friday night so no time to get to a campsite.
Finally I got to see the sea on Italys west coast.
There was along the way a few kms of gravel.
Then into Civitavecchia.
Always a final ice cream.
I did meet a a couple of women riders who had ridden from the Netherlands. No pictures 🤷♂️
The port is a mess with practically zero signage. I went to 3 places before I got to the terminal, of course getting increasingly angrier. But finally success.
I got on the boat. Demanded that my bike was put in a safer place thsn just leant against a wall in the garage, history has told me this is not good. 😕
I got to the seated area 1st person. I sat next to one of 2 plugs for the 200 seats and saved it for myself. Then put my sleeping mat on the floor between the seats and went to sleep.
I tried to get up later, I really did try. But at 6am I woke. An apple a Kiwi fruit and a cerial bar for breakfast. I was up and riding by 7.30. 30 mins later of course I was in a café having coffee and a croissant. That safely tucked away I got on the road for real.
Oh hiw once again was cursing Komoot, the road was so busy, cars, lorries ypu name it hammering past me. But we wound up a snakey climb and
Such a beautiful town of course I bought a spinach pie
And a pizza that I eventually had for lunch.
The road was quieter after that as I moved off rhe main road.
Another georgeous town.
Hmmm early or late
Eventually I got to Lake Bracciano. The first campsite had booming music and was €25 which I thought was a bit steep. The next 10 kms away was quiet and €15.
They told me I’d lose weight by touring. I believe Italy has failed me in that endeavour.
Daily Disasters: forgot to organise evening food so only have fruit to eat this evening.
I slept so well last night and at 6am I leaped out of bed packed. Ate the breakfast provided . And was on the road just before 7. Always with my coffee I cannot resist a marmalade croissant.
My route put in some really seriously steep climbs tosat, one at 20% and one at 15%, I didn’t get to check the others as I was puffing so much. I did decide to ride them all today so I’m feeling pretty accomplished. Winding my way through hill top towns and villages. I couldn’t help but stop and buy something then sit down to soak up the atmosphere. Observing people doing their everyday lives is so interesting. The speed people talk, the volume they talk, mannerisms, gestures. Seriously I could be there all day.
He deserved a picture all to himself for that parking. And always good to see a rugby pitch but I feel seldom used.
I had a choice turn left to the camping at the lake, but 40kms away. Or turn right to the nearest campsite. I took the latter but forgot to look for food on the way. So this evening I have only some fruit and a couple of cereal bars. That’s fuel for a long ride 😂.
Daily Disasters: There were some. 1. Komoot took me on 10kms of gravel. 2. Komoot tried to take me down a closed road. 3. I went down the closed road. 4. Campsite was closed.
6.45 as I left the campsite. My socks were wet, my jersey was wet, my gloves were soaked, it’s really not a nice feeling. 10kns in I stopped for coffee and a couple of croissants, a great pick me up.
Other apps said sunshine but the BBC app said thunder and heavy rain, luckily all day we had the former. But at 1500m it’s quite cool and I wore my Albion UL jacket, keeps my chest warm but my arms sweat and the material sticks to them, it feels like being wrapped in a plastic bag.
The road had been gently rising but at Cappadocia the road turned left and took a serious up turn. Twisting and turning up the sides of the mountain to a ski resort. At this point much to my disdain the road turned to gravel for the next 10kms. This part of the route I can hardly day how good it was, I was in a national park. I saw no-one. If I had gravel tyres it really would have been fantastic but I was worried. And I was alone in the middle of nowhere.
Eventually I was spat out onto a road so pleased, there were some tat stores only one of which was open. But I rolled to go down the road abd there in front of me was a Road Closed sign, but only one bollard. I went to the guy in the shop and quizzed him, he was the most unhelpful man. But he pointed in the opposite direction to the road and said go back to Cappadocia. Ooooo I was upset and angry. I started to go down the road in the direction he pointed, but it went immediately to dirt. I thought if I’m going back to Cappadocia it’ll be by the route I came, my Garmin will direct me there.
Getting back to the shop, it was now closed and the guy had gone. There was only one place he could have gone, down the closed road. I decided to go that way. It was stupid and sooooooo scary. The road clung to the side of the mountain sheer vertical above and below. I rolled down slow, dreading it would be blocked coz it was steep to go back up. Eventually I saw 2 cyclists coming up and asked if the road was clear they said yes. I rolled faster but still cautious. There had been a bit of stone fall onto the road. I got to a town and felt safe.
The road kept descending to Jenne where I stopped for a bit of lunch. I knew I had a climb to 1500m and the campsite I was aiming for. Out of Jenne the road topped at 22% of course I was walking way earlier than that.
It kept going up and up and I was getting tired. I met an italian guy who was out for a 9 day hike, I asked about the campsite he said it was open.
When I finally got to the csmpsite it was closed despite someone inside. Grrrrrrr. This area would be perfect for a wild camp, I cracked and booked a hotel.
I had stopped my Garmin. Then I started it to ride to the hotel, then when I got there the guy said it was a littke further, he didn’t tell me how steep the hill would be.
Last night it was cold and I wore my longjohns and my long sleeve top and puffa jacket, and socks. I know the full complement. Brett will be chuffed as he’s always wagging his finger at me for not taking enough clothes
Retracing my ride yesterday out of the valley I was hit by 3 pitches way too steep for me to ride up. Head down small steps. I was heaving when I got to the top.
But after a small descent then it was up again to 1054 meter pass.
Then up and down to Barrea. So georgeous
Eventually I rode over a 1500m pass, it was colder up there and spitting with intermittent rain. I rotated my Albion UL micro jacket and my rain jacket. And over the top there was a beech forest. Mioooow so good.
And a 1 min video of the beech forrest
There is unfortunately a blurry 5 mins video of my 500m descent, one handed in the wet. But it will never see the light of day.
Some time just after the descent it started to rain hard I had prejudge and already had the Gore Shakedry on. Everything is wet, inside the Shakedry from sweat the rest from rain. Luckily at the reduced altitude the temper was ok. I thought I would have been frozen. The jacket does hold out the wind.
I had earmarked a campsite, but I was extremely dubious if it would be open. But I had a bookings.com backup. I was riding hard through the rain, the road was flatish and the views destroyed by rain, cloud and mist. Also I was pretty sure the campsite did a siesta close. So I was working hard.
The route to the campsite was off my general route and I didn’t want to get lost. But the rain was dotting on my Garmin and changing pages automatically, stopping any ability to design a route to the campsite. Eventually I stopped under a balcony searched out an old tissue dried the Garmin screen and my hand and finally got it locked in.
Of course the final 5kms were uphill. I took my time. I was already knackered.
Finally I got to the campsite. The lady said go in and relax. I bought 2 packets of chrisps and 2 croissants and stuffed them for lunch.
I woke of course at 6am but had to wait till 8am my organised time for breakfast.
Out the door and up the hill I came down yesterday. But I was fresh and the gradient was perfect for my morning legs.
Of course it soon turned to this:
I was chased by this:
I was chased by these:
The dog count today was very high I stopped many times. This is my tactic, if I ride they chase if I stop they stop, I hope an owner comes out but usually I walk very slowly keeping my bike between them and me .. I am in fear.
The road was great today and the views outstanding.
Oh the coffees.This statue intrigued me. Unfortunately there was no explanation
I popped into the Orsini supermarket to buy a little bit of sustenance and came out with all this. I did eaten most at lunch.
As I said the views were spectacular
I did ride over this balcony bridge.
The ladt bit of my route was out, to a campsite. I wasn’t sure if I would stay as I had done so little, I just thought I’d ride on but…….
The joy of the tent is that usually when the tweeters start up the sun is starting to rise. I wake at this point, its a real joy. So i packed up slowly. I forgot to tell the reception i would be leaving early. But there was a small side gate. And at 6am I was on my way.
Retracing the last 5kms from yesterday. The road the campsite was on had cars and lorries hooning along. I cringed at the side of the road. But a right turn takes me inland and towards some elevation and practically zero traffic… a pure joy.
My favourite meal of the day.
The road twisted and turned, weaving its way into the mountains. Lush fields green woodland, such a joy to be riding through.
I stopped in Fraine for coffee and a pastry. The town was celebrating, I still have no idea what.
Leaving town I was greeted with this. Its actually the second of 2 gradients. I had the strength for 1 only.
The road still rising. Then as I was buying lunch (mozzarella and a roll) I saw this:
I sat in a bus shelter and waited eating my lunch. The wind was howling and I shivered and put my rain jacket on, just in case. And contemplated. My thoughts were I had to go down a hill then up a 500m hill to my campsite, possibly in the rain. I broke, Martje and Stan would have laughed at my patheticness, I booked a hotel. 17kms away, all downhill.
So I cycled down and the storm clouds blew over and not a drop of rain. 🤦 I shake my head in shame and disappointment in myself.
But that lasted a second now I’m revelling with being inside for the night, getting all my stuff charged, having breakfast made for me. Whoop whoop.
I font know if it’s only on the paid version but if you click on my activity then click on the arrow, see picture. You will get a brilliant video of the route.
A Couple of Days Ride Outta....... 