A Couple of Days Ride Outta…….

The hotel allowed me to unlock and leave my key on the desk. Early morning coffee at the local bar, not sure if this lot are, late nighters or early morningers.

Aftery ride out of town the morning went sort of like this-

Every pedal stroke, every foot fall worth it the see the magical beauty. 🙂

Im very weary of my shoe, any repairs done rendered useless in seconds on the first climb. I stood on the pedals all the way up a long concrete climb, it’s getting tough.

I’m getting to areas and towns i know. So many of the roads and tracks are familiar, i was fooled a few times thinking i was about to descend but inevitably going up.

On today’s route warnings it says, Includes a very steep up hill segment. I usually ignore this as there are so many steep up hill segments.

The section in question is the track between Timar and Juviles. The little slot to start this section is nearly impossible to find. I sensibly changed to my sandals.

I constantle reminded myself small sure-footed steps Mark. One trip and you are toast, if i started tumbling there really would be no way back.

The 2km section took an hour to complete.

I know it was Saturday night but my neighbours got back ay about 11pm then left their car engine running for at least an hour. I have no idea why.

So when my 4.30 alarm went off i let it ring for a bit extra. Packing in a campsite is good as there are always lights on.

As i left the campsite little did i know the dead flat hell that was waiting for me. The coast path, of course was 90% sand, absolutely no riding going on here. I pushed and pushed and pushed. I guestimated it was 6kms. Which means it was probably only 2kms. This pushins sucks every ounce of energy, enthusiasm, and joy out of me. And the one time i did get on and ride the path immediately turned back to sand slewed the bike and threw my sweat covered body into the sand which is still in the evening dotted all over me.

Of course eventually sand turned to track, track to path then road. Into central Almeria, the coffee revived me a bit

But its hard to describe how much energy was sapped from my body.

I knew there were hills, there always are. The track leaving Almeria was easy enough for me to ride. So quickly out of town and into beautiful mountainous nature. The views inland and over to the sea were fantastic. This route is so good.

But i cannot remember when but the path changed from beautiful track to big stones, just a bit smaller than a cricketball. Falling on this is a real bad option, injury is pratically guaranteed. And eventually the the area i was able to ride on became so narrow and i was going so slow. I made a tatical dismount and walked. I suppose it’s a little better than sand. But it was up and up.

My left shoe has all the tread ripped from the front. So now it just looks like a road bike shoe. I have just covered the front in superglue. Likleyhood of it helping is about zero but i have to try something. It has to last 2 or 3 more days. There is so much walking it is ripping through the carbon. Not sure i want to be cycling in sandals.

I walked and walked, very seldom was there any chance to ride. Some may say i should have a mountain bike, but the second road part of the trip people would say you need a road bike. But this is what i have, its a compromise sometimes. But nothing would stop from me hating that section. I was really questioning my decision to carry on at all.

I stopped at a small village. There was a water fountain so my bottles were full for the evening. Also a community pool where i staggered in and ate 3 ice lollies, there were peculiar looks.

I then pressed on getting to the peak of the climb before plumetting into the depths of the valley. Where i found a flat bed of stones for the night, it was surprisingly comfortable. Or maybe i was just too tired to care.

Yep an add on day as no internet last night.

I woke at 4 and packed up. I ate what food i had left over. Probably started cycling at 4.30 or 4.45.

Up up and more up, going that slow in the pitch black is pretty scary. As i was in a deep ravine there we absolutely no lights except the stars. I had checked and knew it was a 10km climb and also an elevation of from 500m to 1400m.

As i was a bit scared of completely ruining my shoes i rode the climb in my sandals, surprisingly ok to cycle in. At the top there was a seat and a georgious view point.

I brewed a coffee and relaxed watching the view. Then packed up and freewheeled the road down.

I freewheeled nearly all the way to Berja. Where at 11.30 i had an early lunch. My legs tired from the walking the day before and the early morning climb, I wasnt feeling too clever so i booked a hotel and lay flat for the rest of the day.

My Garmin/or me failed to record the ride today which I’m a bit grumpy about. But approx 43kms and 1000m climbing.

The hostel doesn’t usually open till 8am but the guy kindly allowed me to leave the keys in a flowerpot. I said 5 or 6 but it was 6 20 as i left. I consumed a lot of fruit for breakfast

The road winds its way towards the sea. Mainly down hill but not steep. As usual the excitement of seeing the sun ride over the horizon fills my heart with joy (until the heat hits me like a sledge hammer). Second breakfast and coffee was at a large motorway hotel and cafe.

The price of our tomatoes and other fruits in tge UK is the south of Spain being covered with field size plastic green houses to make them grow. Its an abomination.

Yes and seeing the sea is exciting. I expected the road to be a littke undulating and it did not disappoint.

I have split this 750 km route into 9 seperate routes. Just for convenience. And today i finished one sndvstarted another. As i had a coffee and looked at the new route profile there were 2 blips of hills that i knew i would be clumbing today and a massive mountain reserved for tomorrow.

And what a shock when i saw the hills, so steep rugged gravel. This section of road had been car restricted, not fully but practically none, it definately makes the travel experience more pleasant. I plodded and pushed in the sweltering 2pm heat. Eventually topping to spectacular views.

2.20 at the campsite.

I got up and retraced the 10kms back then another 10km on into Tabernes, i deserved a coffee at this point. Despite being in the close vacinity of where The Good the Bad and the Ugly and many other Paella westerns and at least 2 western theme parks, Tabernes was very pleasant.

I searched out the water fountain and filled up all bottles. All I knew as there would be some very steep climbs mear the next town, then down, down, down.

The route was great the surface easily negotiatable. And my path twisted and turned along gorges, high sided.

Then i came across this

I think i missed a small turn, it seems with karge consequences. My Garmin showed my route a little to my right, going back us never sn option so i took a quick reccy came back and pushed/pulled/hauled/shouted to get the bike over.

Now i was just following a riverbed. I didnt think of the consequences of where it would take me. But still i was travelling paralell to my route to the right.

I came to the end of my riverbed canyon

I was gasping. It took all my ingenuity and strength. There were some hairy and scary moments. I feel achieved. Oh and there was my route.

When i get onto a road it is joyous how easy it feels but usually short lived. The road to Turrillas is steep but my route turns off slong a concrete path maxing at 24% i can assure you there was only pushing going on here. I asked Turrillas, no accommodation.

It is at this point i finally broke. The route went up a hiking path so steep and gnarly. A guy said follow another path instead. And this i did, and what a magnificent path it was light gravel all the way and joining the original just outside Nijar.

But of course no digression goes unpunished. As i was hammering it down a hill i heard undesirable squeaking. Looking down i discovered a nut disappeared and a bolt loosening. So lucky i had a spare nut. Of course this is not a 5 mins job, it demands some unpacking and unstrapping. I then discover other things that need tightening and checking. So 90mins later i set off again, i have tightened the bolt snd superglued to nut on. Lets see how that holds up.

I rolled into Nijar at 3.15. Everywhere on Bookings com was full, but i cruised into Hostal Montes and booked in 2 nights, seriously my undercarridge needs a days rest, theres a whold world of pain and soreness going on.

My camp spot was great, the vie when light the view when dark and the stars at night. At 2000 meters there is near zero light polution, oh oh oh.

Packing and leaving was sadness but 6am i was on my way, it was then i discovered a fliwing water fountain and 2 or 3 shelves designed for camping. Well at least i got to replenish my dwindling water supplies.

Free wheeling down the road my dynamo lighting my way in the pitch black. Then 5kms down the descent the route turned off the road and plumeted down what looked like a black hole straight into nothingness. If i had hesitated the courage would have left me. So into the abyss i went. I cannot describe the exhileration. Twisting and turning down until popping me out onto s road again after 10kms. If i had been american i would have whooped.

About 20 kms later i eventually got to Gérgal. I had my usual but worst of all my toast and tomatoes.

This is where it a started to go horribly wrong about 5kms south of Gérgal there was a padlocked chain with a private sigh, no padlock i would have leapt over but i funnily respedt padlocks, so i returned to Gérgal and followed paralell to the main road until i could cut back to the route.

Back on the route o was feeling pretty chuffed with my self.

Then the route followed a river bed through a gorge. For most times this would be spectacular to see, and it was, but i could not cycle as the sand was so soft and i spent the whole time looking down and pushing.

The route crossed a railway line, luckily there was a guy there who said no trains were due, i leapt across. I struggled to push the bike up and the route was so gnarly i seriously nearly gave up altogether, the ledge was so narrow i had to lean into the mountainside carrying the bike to stop myself from tumbling 100m down the mountain. Lifting, shoving, dragging, crying. I must have been pushing up for at least an hour.

Its a walking track not really for cyclists. But eventually it turned to a gravel roas i smiled… down hill now. No sooner had i got going but a sign saying no through do not enter. I ignored it, but down hill 500meters further another 2 signs, i ignored then and 500m further down a padlocked gate. I saw people had carried round but i was scared. I retraced my steps alk the way back to the railway. I was shattered i lay on my mat on the ground and slept for an hour.

I designed a route back to a road, along the river bed again. Eventually i got to the road. And tried to book a hotel, everythung taken within a 10km radius. Luckily i eventually found a hostel with 1 room for 1 night, 10 kms away.

Shower, wash clothes food and now it’s 10pm.

I really am shattered and have to leave tomorrow.

I showered, got dressed, packed, down stairs by about 5am. Unfortunately the garage was locked. I went back to bed till 6.30. Had coffee and croissants then left.

Already it was cooler than the day before. I got to Gor in 15 mins or so, and felt real disapointed i had filtered 5 litres of water in the hotel.

Just after Gor i stopped to ask a couple sitting on a step if there was a cafe about. They said no but immediately offered me a cup. I obviously accepted.

The route was real wild. Sometimes pretty indecipherable but i ploughed on and some how made it through.

There did seem to be a lot of not particularly steep climbing. And i thought i was going to run out of water, luckily i met a couple of motorcyclists stopped at the top of the Observatory who offered me a bottle. With this i had enough water to camp.

Another great start to the day.

I had read there would be meteors last night and there were.

Slowly i descended through the darkness. I saw a group of people on a ledge waiting for sunrise. Its tough going down there are cuts and fissures across the path. I wrong move and you are off the vertical edge.

I was already in a valley snd saw no spectacular sunrise.

I rode through the day as a blurr i am so tired and the sun rips every morsel or energy out

Very tired tonight. Is it bad to suck honey straight from the bottle? Hopefully stop early in a hotel tomorrow. I was so tired last night that at 9pm when i finally laid flat i immediately slept and only woke at 6am.

I’m also confused as Garmin says all my rides are recovery rides an i need to pull my finger out! Let’s get one of them guys down here

When i woke i knew i had overslept but i rammed down some cold porridge and honey and a bit of water. I had limited supply and had to be cautious.

Most of the days ride was up. My legs were weak and i slowly turned over the pedals. I finished my water but lyckily found a church with a tap so i filtered a liter or 2.

Coming out of the canyons was such a thrill. I know I keep going on about loving westerns but 😲😲😲 what a joy to cycle this.

I really was tired and under nourished and under watered. I picked a hotel 3kms off the route and booked it. Unfortunately i was not allowed to cycle the 3 kms as it was motorway so 10kms later and down and up a gorge i finally get to the hotel at 2pm.

Lunch eaten, clothes washed, 7liters of water filtered. Feeling much better. Although i seem to have got a but of a pull in my hanstring, see how it goes tomorrow.

I was in a little bit of a valley close to a stream and in the middle of the night i woke feeling cold. As i was using my quilt as a pillow, i had to modify not easy at that time.

No alarm I woke at 4.30. It takes a little to orientate at that time. I had cold porridge and 2 yoghurts for breakfast expecting to get coffee at a cafe soon.

Packing in the pitchblack with only the headtorch is an eerie experience. But i was up and riding in under an hour.

Soon the route turned off the road onto a track once again my dynamo light blaring out the path but anything outside that beam could be anything. The sliver of a moon giving minimal guidance.

High up through pine covered mountains. It kept going up at a reasonable gradient on a beautiful gravel track. Oh what a great morning.

Then into the terrain of my dreams. Water and wind cut mountains reminiscent of the westerns of my youth. Oh its like riding through a dream. I stopped repeatedly to take photos. Temperatures are now sweltering and concentrated in these narrow valleys.

Wow it was hot and unshaded, i did lie under a tree for a couple of hours. Then i pushed on to Gorafe i celebrated with an ice cream and a lemonade.

Everything told me to get into a hotel, it was 6pm but stupidly i rode on, such a steep climb out but luckily flat after.

Its so desolate here i just selected a flat piece of ground by the side of the track. 8pm still no tent up, but i have consumed food.

Cozy inside my bed my alarm at 4.30, shrill, shakes me from my sleep. Today is going to be a great day. Fruit, water, pack and out the door by 5.30 ish.

City lights make it feel like day but the road winds its way up to and past the Alhambra Palace. Then into the darkness I’m so pleased I organised my dynamo light thank you Christian at Cycle Cycles for sorting this. The route is followable on my Garmin but off road things are more complicated.

I am now on the Badlands Route, most is off road and these 40⁰c temperatures ain’t in my favour. The early mornings are a must. I feel no embaressement or shame about getting off and pushing. A few times I look to see how far I have gone, its so slow and hard going.

For the last few months i have been riding with Glasgow Green Cycle Club i unfortunately have to inform you, off road touring is so much harder than road riding. But i would not feel as good as i do if i hadnt been riding with the club.

I took a little tumble at 2km/h luckily nothing broken or bent.

I was just coasting from path to road, at the transition what i thought was a smooth bit of concrete was actually a dip, deeper than i could handle. I took a tatical dismount, the bike crashed onto the road and i just ran across the road. But when i picked up the bike the chain had moved to the small sprocket of the cassette. And much as i tried i could not get it to budge, none of the levers would change it. I was particularly frustrated, and worried. It seems the chain had shifted into the small cog while the internals thought it was in the big cog, i did some jiggery pokery and it all came together.

I rode out of the town full of water/fruit and pizza. But its all up and after an hour or 2 i got to the camp site i had been aiming for. But it was closed so i cycled on. Eventually stopping by the side of the road. It was 1.30 and just too hot to carry on. I lay in the dirt and ate more fruit.

90 mins later. I rode the last 2.5kms to the top 1800meters high

Look at those views worth ever second of the torturous climb. The down was mostly off road twisting and turning with the mountains.

I found a spot in a field about 150meters from the road. It’s relatively sheltered. The temperature is still up in the high 30s. I’m loath to put up my tent till dusk despite the seclusion, it’s just a cautions thing.

Bring on tomorrow… im supposed to be doing 100kms. I think that’s unlikely.

No pictures of the camp spot, way too dark. But i do believe a few ants got into the tent i have no idea from where. Surely there is not a hole in it already, that would be saddening.

I woke in the dark, about 6.30, that jet lag still there. I really was so tired last night i fell to sleep immediately. Yesterday was an initiation kick. Luckily i did do most of the ups and today was mainly down.

The ride today exemplified all things i hold dear and value in my touring. It wasn’t easy, the ups were still challenging and the views from the top were spectacular, hot arrid landscape parched brown by the fierce sun. Rows and rows of olive trees. Twice i stopped in small towns once for Tostadas y tomates and once for churos and chocolate. 2 of my simple and greatest of pleasures. I travel for the pleasure of going to different places, not for the spectacular.

Then on into Granada. My gears are rattling and i am sitting drinking OJ as a mechanic sorts them 🤞. He cocked it up. I was angry 😡. I went to another shop, he diagnosed derailleur hanger bent….. I’m not 100% sure as he didn’t do the shimano computer gear set up. Anyway it seems to be ok now, let’s see what tomorrow brings.

When i leave home and do my bike setup i think its perfect but when i actually get cycling many of the positions of clothes/equipment I thought were good are actually not, so i have juggled everything a bit.

And as an early birthday treat I am staying in a hotel. I hope to be out in the wilderness tomorrow night for my actual birthday.