Disaster

I leave the curtains open in the hotel this allows the first sounds of the call to prayer to be easily heard and the first rays of light to penetrate.

The bed was really comfortable and i found it hard to get vertical. The room had a little kitchenette so i made porridge and coffee. I dont really look at the time but when the sky turns from morning grey to light i am usually on my way.

Some of the road was not in the best repair
That orange really pops. I cycled a good distance and unsighted from the road to select this spot for coffee..

The scenery was epic, straight road, mountains each side, dome fantastic rock formations. The wind was negligible and the riding a joy. The cool early start is what a cyclists life is all about.

Then at 60kms exactly, i heard my tentpole bag rubbing the wheel.

And on closer inspection i notice that both bolt holes to my mini frame had broken off. 😲😬

Ok there was swearing 🤬. I took some deep breaths (thank you Wim for your words in my ear) to calm myself.

The decision is, Do i hitch forward tο Ibri then back to this spot or do i hitch back to Al Buraimi then forward again to this spot.

I decided to hitch back and within half an hour Saieed had stopped in his pickup the bike was in the back and we were on our way. Saieed spoke reasonable English but, welder, stumped him he phoned his son and we sorted out what i wanted and Saieed took me straight to a metalwork furniture fabricator.

Of course a lesser man (more sensible man) would have gone back to the hotel 100meters away. But no, i just jumped on and started to cycle. It’s now 1pm and sooooooo 🔥. I last about 90minutes find some shade and colspse under a bush. It wasnt a suitable place to stay long. So i soon got it together and rode to where i had siopped for coffee in the morning and stopped. I’m going nowhere else grrrrr.

I did ride cautiously but so far the weld is holding up.

On the road in Oman

The plan is to do this route. Down at the bottom there is Salalah. I tried to make it interactive buti won’t let me. Its all road but i will find a bit of gravel for fun.

I stayed 3 nights at Hubbers this is an outdoor center in Hatta camping showers and charging is complementary which is fantastic. Although the distance to the showers is a bit of a long way its just nice to be able to stay somewhere and chill. But the wind/was up to 45kmp and way too strong for me to cycle.

The afternoon of the second day Nicola turned up, he is Italian and riding a recubent, and totally immersed in to travelling, and had been at Tom’s in Abu Dhabi when I was there. So we chatted the afternoon away.

We set off at the same time but we ride at a different speed so we said our goodbyes and went our ways.

The border is about 10kms away and i was through in seconds. I had to pay AED 30 about 15 quid to leave but i was given 4 small sachets of delicious dates. The irony of getting those at ramadan just as it got light.

Tho Omani border was a breeze all so pleasant interested in my direction and all, a real joy

Then i was through and riding. Somehow i had accumulated lots of food and water at Hubbers that was in my rucksack cutting heavily into my shoulders. The road was pretty up and down sequences of 12/13/14/15% gradients it was tiring. Then at the bottom of one of the valleys there was water flowing, i squeezed the brakes (those shimano GRX brakes are spectacular) and slowed to a snails pace. But slime got my tire and i found myself arse down in the water bike on top of me.

New levers now not looking new any more.

Ramadan is upon us and so no eating during daylight hours. Well at least in sight. I hadn’t had a coffee this morning so at about 10 i was feeling weary so i cycled into a gully out of sight of anyone and in the shade, i fired up a coffee then lay for 30 mins.

I felt a bit more chipper after my snack.

With an intermittent back wind i made fantastic headway and by 2 o’clock i could see Al Buraimi. I got to the hotel, went to the wrong entrance and when i did eventually find reception the guy didnt speak English but seemingly had no idea about what to do. Then inspiration hit him and he called a guy from the next room who sorted everything in seconds. Im really a bit grumpy when i arrive hot and tired. Anyway settled in, bike in room. Expensive but normal for here.

The room is big but furniture is threadbare. There is a little kitchenettes as well. OR17 about £34.

Rain, soaking in seconds.

My camp spot last night as sun rises.
I know grass!

I had designed a route to get to Hatta Bike Hub i proposed to camp there 2 nights. I am tired and definately needed a rest day. I had breakfast and coffee and only had ½ a litre of water. 🤦

The route took me down to the Oman border. Now I’m innocent (naive, stupid, take your pick) there is a track by the border and i was happily trundling along making good time. I saw a jeep in front going very slow and as i was beside the guy opened the window and told me i could not ride there. I knew this would be a routing disaster. But it did dawn on me that the border track was not the place to be.

I sat down and redesigned my route. Yep a massive disaster a big loop through the mountains 100kms rather than the 50kms. A few seconds contemplating this disasted and i set off.

The new route took me back along the road i had just been on. Then back along some of the route i did yesterday

Luckily it took me to a shop where i loaded up (unnecessarily as it transpired) with food, fruit and water.

The route was tough and did entail a good deal of walking. But it was so beautiful I hardly had a time to moan to myself. So many canyons i would go back just for that route today. (Grrrrr there is something else i wanted to put in here and i forgot )

I hit tarmac and started pounding out some fast kms. I came out of a canyon and did nearly a u turn into the next. But as i neared the top ii saw a sign saying road closed. Now that would be a disaster. 😲. I got to spot where the road was closed off and looked. It didn’t look too bad but i cyled up to a car and Hamed got out ond offered me a lift saying it was too tough for a bike to do because of a landslide. But he offered to give me a lift. The bike safely in we drove through the tunnel. It was an easy ride with a bit of rough road he should have seen what i had done before. But i was deeply grateful to get through the tunnel. I would not have been able to take another route disaster

Hamed

I was feeling good and the kms were clicking down fast. Throughout the day there had been overcast skys and drops of rain. Then it started to pelt down. An Emeratie guy stopped his car snd offered me a lift. He was such a nice guy speaking good English. Of course i accepted. We popped into his family farm. Then he took me to Hatta and my campsites.

Hatta seems nice.
Mat and Rex sorted out my camping
Dinner just arrived

The call to prayer just prior to sunrise, lound and strong shook me from my sleep. Closer than i thought. But definately the perfect time. I had cooked my porridge and drunk my coffee and pedalling softly bu the tine the sun was fully up.

I went I to Masafi for a second, and best so far, coffee. I also filled up on supplies of water. 2, 1.5 bottles in my rucksack.

Pushing, lifting, kicking, grinding, shouting, then crying. My ankles are swolen and bashed by rocks and my pedal. Once again alternating pushing and riding, I repeatedly was desperate to ride so I could give my legs a rest.

And hot the sun blazing down all day. (Better than snow though 🤣)

I stopped at a small resturant for rice, chicken gravy and yoghurt. Great for mid day specisl. The only problem is that i do feel lethargic strait after.

I took a wrong turn and had to carry the bike again and pushing so a cruel end to this lovely route.

Getting close to wash time.

Wet tent 🤦

I slept like a log last night. And as i woke i felt a dampness from condensation inside the tent. The rent walls were mildly wet. Mildly or completely wet it makes no difference. If it touches the sand it will be atuck to and look like sand paper. This is inevitably what happened. Plus nearly everything i own.

But i succeeded in having breakfast and coffee. And was riding by 7.10. Now i say riding but what i mean is push, drag, pull. This became the order of the day, and it is draining, every muscle is used. Post breakfast i must have walked 3 or 4 kms. I realy could have stopped then i was so tired.

But in the desert there was a camal race track. It had sand for the track and round the outside tarmac then around that another sand track. The inside track were race camals running (no riders) then on the tarmac the camals owners/trainers going at full pelt in suvs following ther camal. Then on the outside of the tarmac were trainers/owners traveling at walking pace, following bunches of camals on the outter sand. The inside lot were going anticlockwise and the outside clockwise. It was mayhem.

Finally i got away from the camal track but there were groups of camals walking everywhere. I got to a coffee shop, Itsmair from north west Pakistan talked great English to me druing my break.

There were only a couple of road sections today. Sometines on the sand i cycled 2 or 3 meters then walked this repeated itself constantly. Gotta tell you i was getting a little grumpy.

Now I’m sure you are saying, some of those areas look like hard pack surely you could cycle. I can assure you most were not.

I had a chicken tika in a bun for lunch it was pretty disappointing. But i did glug copious amounts of water.

The route turned to a track upping and downing. It was hard work. But for different reasons this time. I checked my distance 1pm and only 40kms completed that’s slow going. I knew there was a lake area and i thought of camping there for the night. But it was all locked up. So I rode on.

Eventually i just bunged the tent here. It’ll have to do.

It was a resl tough day today. The walking really took it out of me. I could possibly do with a hotel soon. Just to wash and relax.

Partying late into the night

But the alarm still went at 06.20 and by light i was on my way having had breakfast and coffee. Of course 20kms later I was drinking my second coffee.

Quickly i was directed along a path. Every path is half sandy and soon my relatively narrow (70 x 40c) tires slewed to one side and i ground to a hault. I pushed and pulled and a combination of both, its slow going and i knew it was a marker as to what was to come.

All along the route there were groups of camals being walked (i saw nothing faster) and many stables marked my route. I suppose this is camal racing territory. There were ranches marked all along my route.

Then away from the built up areas and into the desert wilderness.

Luckily today there were many more shops/restaurants and towns allowing me to drink snd eat substantially more.

I had a bit of a siesta after lunch but when the wind blows sand is kicked up and attaches itself to every part of me.

My shoes were rubbing on my heel and putting a compede plaster seemed to save any more pain, it dropped off at the end of the day.

I finished my first route and started a circuit that Merce and Ramon sent me. Its all off road and rough, nothing wrong with that of course. I just have to work a bit harder.

In the end i looked up and saw a road of soft sand and i thought, thats me done for the day. 🥵

Its been a tough day not much elevation just sand and lots of it. It definately slows you down a lot.

I cried like a baby.

Its such a struggle to leave when people are so friendly. But leave I must. The alarm hammered my eardrums at 05.01 I got vertical fast, a quick shower. As I got down stairs Tom already up with coffee brewed. Still dark outside, then Nicola was up, we all had breakfast and at about 06.20 i was on my way.

I was hoping for a second coffee soon but i was sorely disappointed, there were no shops, no cafes, no water stops, just kilometers and kilometers of near straight big roads.

After about 50kms I turned off the E311 and onto a bike path. No water fountains, minimal shade. But after 90kms i found a mosque with water.

Shortly after the mosque I poped into Circuit Wheels

Then shortly after that I found the Al Qudra Lakes camping area. And I thought 110kms was enough for a 1st day

Flat and fast. 🥵

Oh Ann, you couldn’t be more right.

Ann Peebles

I was at a loss, with a bit of devastation in my personal life where I had something planned. Unfortunately I found myself alone (again, naturally, is it me, it probably is 🤷‍♂️) with no real plan. Then GCN showed the Tour of Oman and the Tour of UAE, I was sucked in like a rat up a drainpipe. This is a pale replacement of the original plan but life is not always kind.

Ticket bought, visas acquired, hotels booked. It’s all financially top end loaded. But the ticket to Abu Dhabi was cheapish. I am hoping to camp most of the time, I have contacted a couple of warmshowers hosts, let’s see what transpires.

The cycling plan is to ride a bit of UAE then into Oman. There is an oasis, Salalah, in the south west corner of Oman famous for its frankincense, herds of canals and verdant surrounds. It’s a long way down. Then back to the Hajar Mountains, the usual gravel riders destination. Hoping to then get a flight to Istanbul. It’s then just a skip to get back to Greece.

The journey to Abu Dhabi was oarticularly long and arduous. Including a 27 hour delaywith a free hotel room thrown in. But I eventually arrived at Abu Dhabi Airport at 3am, my bookings.com host had promised to be there he turned up an hour later.

In the morning i put the bike together and rode off.

I was about to leave the city much later than hoped when i remembered I had contacted a warmshowers host. So i phoned him for a coffee. During coffee he invited me back to his place, he was already hosting 3 other cyclists. I’m now here for 2 nights 🤷‍♂️

That guilty feeling

I was having coffee in Escobar and Kostas suggested I camp twice a week. I thought once a week was enough. But guilt got the better of me so rode home packed the bike up. This always takes at least 2 hours sespite doing it numerous times. I estimated leaving at 4 and arriving at my proposed campspot 30kms away at about 5.30.

Ifcourse i failed miserable to leave at 4 and ended up leaving at 4.30. The first half if the ride is easy and flatish.

I filled up with water at Nifi.

Then up up up, the road is ziz zaggy and a bit rough.

Then the road crests and drops into a lush green valley.

I found a tree to lean the bike against and once again on Kostas’s suggestion I pitched my tent looking at the open sky. I amnot putting on tge rain gly so I have a near unimpeded view of the stars.

There really is nothing else to do. Little bit of reading.

But I had a night from hell. No sooner was i horizontal condensation landed on the inside of the tent in puddles. I stopped breathing for at least an hour but to no affect. I couldn’t sleep, the inside of the tent was streaming like rivers onto the floor. I felt cold i felt damp, when i moved the sleeping bag touched the floor or tent wall and sucked water in like a sponge. Then the cammomile tea affect was not to make me go to sleepbut to make me pee, i could not count how many times I go up, neotiated the wet walls, and sleep continued to elude me. I shivered more. My feet were cold despite wearing 2 pairs of socks.

Coffee, porridge. Then packed my stuff up, wet tent, wet sleeping bag, wet riding clothes. Everything wet.

Luckily the day turned out sunny and everything is now washed and dry.

Camping out on Skyros

I could just see the sea

I didnt want to loose my travelling/camping skills. And we have had a few days of great weather.

I worked in the garden for a bit. Then at about 5pm i decided to start packing. This is way too late as i had 40mins riding to do. But i threw my stuff into the bike bags and rode out at about 5.30.

I arrived at Atsitsa at just past six. And filled my bottles here with only a kilometer to go to Atsitsa Beach (so its called on Google but I’m reliably assured it is not)

I set up tent under the pines. I was berated by Kostas the next morning as i could not see the stars, but dew/condensation aversion won. I left the flysheet off the tent just in case there was a few stars visable.

As the sun dipped below the horizon the temperature dropped. I had brought clothes for exactly this occurance.

I fired up the stove and had soup/noodles mix it was as i expected, ok.

Now as the sun disappears and darkness sets in there is very little to do, except huddle up under my sleeping bag read and then fall asleep.

I slept like a log. 😃

The next morning I ambled down to the sea for a dip. It was cold.

Packed my bags up made coffee and breakfast. and rode on out maybe at about 9am

Yes, I forgot my mug and had to drink from the pot.
Sucking stomach in.
Skyros, Chora, looking great in the morning sunshine.

As I got to Escobar for my second coffee. I said how much I enjoyed my excursion. Kostas suggested twice a week. 🤷‍♂️ maybe he is right right.