A Couple of Days Ride Outta…….

Packing my stuff up from the hotel in Agios Gordios feeling a little down.

But with travel in prospect then that blue mood should not last too long.

My goal today is Ipsos camping. Put up the tent, dump most of my luggage bags then ride to the highest point in Corfu.

The center of the island is undulating but not too tough. But the climb out of Agios Gordios was tough. The plan came together perfectly. The campsite although closed allowed me in to camp for the night. Tent duely put up and I set off its about 12kms straight up and my Komoot route took me away from the tarmac road snd up some very steep concrete and gravel climbs. The summit completed I had spied some gravel roads going down from the top. They looked perfect but big chunky stones threw the bike around. I descended slowly brakes full on and despite the spectacular views I arrived back at the campsite a bit disappointed.

I went to sleep to the dalset tones of heavy metal and roaring moped/car engines a stark contrast to the quiet of Agios Gordios. What can I do that’s camping, I should have brought ear plugs.

I have no pressure to get to the mainland ferry. So an easy breakfast.

Then cruise down to the ferry.

The world is my oyster.

The campsite spot was great. Flat and I would have had great sleep if I hadn’t had a massive greek coffee at 12.30pm. Also to my surprise being away from the sea there was very little condensation and I wasn’t cold.

The sun brightened my tent and I ate some halva swigged some water and was up and moving by 7.30ish. I had a plan.

Once again it was up to start with.i stupidly had tried to anslyse how high, how far etc. This is never a good thing. Just accept and do what is in front. But the views were great and the riding, because I was fresh served pretty ok. But I did seem to be climbing for a long time. Eventually there is that wow moment when you reach the final slope

Down down down twisting and turning, gravel and rocks all, off road. Komoots description of gravel is pretty loose. I was spat put onto a road 3 guys were sitting on a veranda. I asked if it was a cafe and a Greek coffee soon arrived. They thought I was stark raving mad. From…..? to…..? 😲

Something happened I must have missed a turn but I believe the Garmin rerouted me before I looked so I followed the purple line up into some hills onto what Komoot said was a road but it was an off road track, it went on and on and I’ve got to say I got pretty tired there was a great deal of walking, I just could not keep pedalling and maybe just a little bit of anger. Despite thinking I was on the correct route it wore me down to a gibbering mess. There were quite a few head resting on the handlebars moments for a considerable amount of time.

I’m doing this multiple of mental calculations about the ferry times Igomanitsa to Corfu. 5.30 ferry… that was always pie in the sky then 8 30 but you have to be at the port an hour before. I was so scared of going off road again if that happened then all ferries would be missed. I ditched the original route and fired up the garmin route planner. That shot up a route retracing my steps back and increasing the distance from 40kms to 60kms. More anger. Eventually I followed the road signs. I thought the ferry was actually at 8 not 8.30. I was on full stress alert and riding as fast as I could. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t that fast as I’d already completed 7 hours riding. Much to my surprise I arrived 90 mins early and enough time for a giros and a litre of orange juice. 90 mins on the boat was a rest 😀

But destination reached and 10 days of relaxation ready for the return journey.

OK yesterdays blog was a bit of a dirge. But today by contrast was special.

Yesterday’s short day was well organised. I had been recommended that Karpenissi was a good town to stop so I booked a hotel arrived at about 12 despite the 3pm check-in time. I had a good lunch, I had a good dinner I went to bed early and I had a good sleep.

Up with the sparrows. It never works perfectly. I bought bread, some biscuits, I stopped for coffee. 9.30 I was in my way. Up Up Up its always straight up at the start of the day. Karpenissi is about 900meters and I cruised to 1400meters.

Then the route designed in Komoot as it often does threw in a curve ball.

I got down to the bridge probably 90mins of walking. The slope the other side was so steep I had another 20 mins walking.

I’m currently camped up ready to see the sea tomorrow.

My tent pitch selection had been rushed and as a consequence was awful. I was on a slope. I’m going to blame the long grass for hiding the slope angle but really it was incompetence. As I was at a higher elevation I anticipated a colder night. I took off my dank sweaty cycling cloths and hung them up (ready to be worn the next day) on the makeshift clothesline in the tent. Then put on my merino base layer top and bottom, long sleeved shirt and puffer jacket then my long trousers (over the top of the long johns) and 2 pairs of socks. I am so rueing the day I decided to leave my sleeping bag at home because of bulk. I’m lying feeling slimy from 3 days cycling, damp coming in from outside and a chill setting in. My feet and toes are like blocks of ice. I fear to rub them in an attempt to warm then for fear of bringing back the terrible chilblains I suffered all winter.

I sleep minimally waking frequently shivering. I really have nothing else to put on. So I lie and read my book waiting for dawn. At 5 I can see the outside brightening through the tent. Still I wait, finally at about 7 I muster the to move. Quickly removing all my sleep clothes snd putting on the cycling gear, rubbing my body hard to warm up. Still the sun has not hit me in the valley. Packing fast and out the tent dew covers everything soaking the tent, bike all the bags. I have learnt to always close every bag at night. My fingers frozen as I do up the buckles and fastenings. I have the packing down to a tee. Usually from horizontal to cycling takes an hour.

Bouncing down the dirt track from my camp spot and onto the road. No towns, no coffee I am suffering big time intermittently rays of sunshine at through the trees and warm my skin.

Pushing on I finally find a cafe that’s open, before 10am way too early for most.

Reaching the top of the pass. I knew I was nearly there. The road snakes down hairpin after hairpin. None of your smooth tarmac here, potholes, broken road sides, adverse cambers, collapsing road into sink holes, its a mine field of descending. Unpredictability is my friend it makes the ride much more interesting.

The road stretches out straight as a die to the town but as always the last 5 kms Komoot likes to throw in a turn. As I rode the gravel track past a house 5 dogs come out and surround me. Stopping I stood still the noise is deafening teeth are bared each dog curling its body as if ready to pounce. Still I didn’t move if I made a step the dogs intensified. The owner came out an old woman shouting and stamping her foot. It made no difference, I stepped away again growling, barking, fear in my face. She seemes to say it was OK, I really didn’t believe her. But eventually the once macho man sulked off 20 meters I found the courage to ride away.

I had a bit of food from my meagre supplies, a banana and a chunk of halva. But as promised I rode a kilometer down the road and the cafes were open. So good.

The road today was flat to Lamia then turning west and flat for another 30kms.

I was excited to stop at Thermopylae. There is a giant statue of Leonedes and other stuff. I know you all know the story or the film. But if I ask make sure you can recite what happened. (Or just tell me in the comments)

I struggled to find a decent camp spot this evening. It looked flatish but when I got on the tent I realised it was on a slope. It’s going to be a struggle to sleep properly tonight.

I’m sorry I can’t make them all interesting. I can only recite what happens 🤷‍♂️

My camp spot was good. After the Easter celebrations and fireworks everything quietened down. I slept well, woke up in the middle of the night feeling cold put on a long sleeved shirt, I already had a merino base layer and long johns on. I went back to sleep woke felt cold put on my puffer jacket, I woke again but didn’t feel too cold. I’ll start with the lot on tonight.

Off road and up for 500 ish meters, it’s a long way and I put everything into the climb, I didn’t try to go fast I just kept going. This had a devastating effect on my ability to get up subsequent climbs. I’m sorry I had to get off and walk. 🥵

As I said subsequent climbs were achieved very slowly or I got off and walked. I’m blaming it on lack of fitness.

I lay under a tree for about 90mins. Then found a beach bar, Easter here everything is closed, I bolted 2 sprites and half a litre of water. And rode out feeling much more sprightly.

The campsite I was aiming for I discovered did not open till 1st May. My spirits lowered, but I found another campsite only for my spirits to be dashed again as it didn’t open till 1st May also. I rode on scanning the sides of the road looking for an adequate place to pitch my tent.

I select campsites from Archies App or the Komoot App. It’s pretty definite that if it’s in Komoot but not in Archies it’s unlikely to be a proper campsite or it’s defunct.

After 90kms, I arrived at the supposed campsite only to be told it’s not a real camping. Grrrrrrr Komoot I believe they take their info from Openstreetmaps. I rode another 30kms to find this spot.

I traced the same route Brett and I did recently its got a few testing climbs.

Every where I go I am followed by guys on mopeds or motorbikes desperately trying to spoil any tranquility.

Last night (Wed), I was a bit out of sorts and didn’t go for dinner, I just lay in bed and groaned. Then next morning I was still feeling non 0lussed but did manage some breakfast.

The first part of the day was a 15kms ride to Agia Marina. As always we left in plenty of time but had to press to make sure we caught the ferry.

60 minutes on the ferry nice and relaxed. I know the route ahead, having ridden it many times. Straight out the port of Styra, there is a climb with such devastating gradients 15 -20%. No warm-up, it’s just up. And in my state of tenderness Brett sped off like a whippet chasing a hare. At the top, I was gasping but bravely pushed on. Now with the wind behind and 30kms to the next turn, we sped on. For a cyclist the speed/distance calculations, 65kms in 3 hours to catch the ferry, don’t sound too tough, but I was suffering big time and a few hills and the luggage were not helping.

After the first 30kms we turn right and pushed towards Kymi and our boat. They are repairing the coast road so 20kms out of Kymi the route turns off the glorious flat wind assisted road and into the mountains, sharp punchy climbs, Brett once again whizzing off the front (I’m sure I heard I heard him laugh as I grunted to keep going) he did intermittently come back not sure if it was to check how I was or just to mock me.

Eventually the road turns right and follows a river down to the sea and another left, the Achilles ship bobbing in the distance. We had made the time easily, Brett and I rode to the ticket kiosk on the pier. I smiled and asked for 2 tickets to Skyros. Sorry sir the boat is cancelled 😲. When’s the next one, possibly at 7pm tomorrow 😲. Our heads sank we had pushed together the 5pm ferry and now had to find an hotel, in Kymi. We were both gutted.

Luckily I knew of a hotel, of course its up a very steep climb, we plodded to the reception. The hotel was only sort of open and they had to make up a room, he also allowed us to put the bikes into the next room. Serious top marks to the Corali Hotel in Kymi.

7.40am boat is ridiculous 🤦 but we got up at 6am packed and got onto the hydrofoil.

60 minutes later we were getting onto the pier at Pireas. Road after road clogged with cars and lorries puffing out fumes, enough to kill any cyclist. We were surprised to see a few other cyclists put in the commute. Following the route on my GPS soon got us out to the other side of Athens. Despite our early start and the timings of other ferries, we were forced 😉 to have a short day. The hotel in Marathon was one I had stayed at before.

Not too shabby for bike packers.

When we looked at the profile of our ride today we thought we were in for a hard time, but the reality was we rode an easy 5% climb out of/Napflion, across the peninsula, mountains rising on each side. Eventually hitting the coast road at Epidavros. After a bit of searching we found the mini amphitheatre. Then to join back to our route we were rewardes with a kilometer of 15 – 20% gradients 🥵 we were mightily puffing after those.

The road turned south a long, winding, undulating piece of georgeous asphalt. The oleander bushes grow high on the sea side of the road obscuring the view a bit. Some graffiti daubed on the inside concrete barrier 😪. Parts of this road reminded me of the Amalfi coast. The views really were to die for.

We consumed a massive lunch, bought our boat ticket to Pireas, then cruised our way to the hotel.