What a lovely start

Such a glorious start to the day. A ride along a path by the beach 10km of beauty. I did get to the end to see a closed gate but luckily a small walking gate was open.

I didn’t have any porridge so just started with a coffee luckily there is always a town near. But as i was nearing the town I was hurrying because I was hungry and i saw this guy on a bike in front….. I gave chase abd caught him (he was on a Storck bike) but then he half wheeled me which forced me on grrrr I was knackered when I finally got my breakfast.

Then my route took me on a dual carriageway for 20km I went at top speed so I could to get off as fast as possible. Luckily I found an off otherwise it would have been on for 30km fullblast.

These 2 occurrences rather swapped my day around. I like to start slow and work faster later. But I was fair knackered all day.

I consumed pizza like it was going out of fashion today… Pasta for dinner.

I rolled down to my campsite next to a lake early…… nice longer to relax.

Sorry no route today it won’t upload. Maybe it will tomorrow.

Phew

I was sad to leave the campsite, probably one of the nicest I have stayed in. I wimped a bit and set the alarm for 06.00 instead of 05.00.

I had observed the route profile last night. An thought I I climb the it was nearly downhill all the way to the sea. This was not the case, there were successive on and off road climbs, some I have to say we’re quite taxing.

But they did culminate to the climb up to (And then out of straight after) Pitigliano which is a very beautiful town.

But the road did then slope down to the sea, mostly off road. I did see thus poor wild bore by the track.

But there were a few sections that I got up to quite a speed, not fast enough to catch any other cyclists though.

I then got to the island of Monte Argentario which isn’t really an island as there are 3 spits that connect it to the mainland. I was to circumnavigate the island. I had been to it before so had some idea that there were some hills.

I got half way round feeling pretty cool. Then the road turned to a track and like always the gradients were steeper than the road and but off road for any given gradient is substantially harder than on the road, and with my bike fully loaded I had slow and agonisingly painful progress. Each time I joined a road and thought, this is it, I turned rough again and then finally just to tire me totally when I did get to the final road it was fiendishly steep.

But I knew my campsite was on the southern mist mainland link. And here I am, the opposite to last night, squeezed into a small space with 1000000 camper vans, 1000000 kids making lots of noise. Ho hum.

The undulation of emotions.

I took another day off yesterday. I know how lazy is that? So with a full 24 hours available to explore every nook and cranny of the georgeous city of Siena. I lay in my tent and slept instead.With the promise of rain starting at 08.00 I set the alarm for 05.00. The rocking in the city till 01.00 didn’t help my sleep. But I woke and packed fast and went.Siena at 06.30 is empty of tourists only the occasional road cleaner and cafe owners breaking open their doors.I loved it.But Tuscany’s countryside was waiting. I rode hard the route was maybe 60 or 70% off road. This time the hills were mildly undulating and the gravel was white and tame.I opted to take minimal photos today. The weather went from rain to overcast and back throughout the day. And intermittently I was not at my happiest. And I did go through a particularly negative hour or so. I started thinking how nice Tuscany is, nice hills littered with nice towns selling nice stuff, I was/am missing the rugged lonesome landscapes. But I met up with a couple of English girls walking the via FranciegnaMy route sometimes follows their path. We had a chat for about 20mins and it cheered me up no end. I’m now thinking how georgeous and spectacular everything is. I also went into Pienza that was a beautiful town.I had planned to stop at a campsite I never know quite how far things are and so I just remember the town before the site and when I get there I put the site’s directions in the Garmin and then I find out how far I rode, just over 130 km today seemed like a breeze. And this campsite is great. I am the only person but everything is laid out well, it’s perfect for me. 😀 But pouring with rain, grrrrrrrr.

What 2 days in one, excellent a real bargain.

I left the campsite so I could get into Firenze for coffee. (notice how I use the Italian way of writing to show how cool and cosmopolitan I have become…. or just that I am a pretentious twat.)The early get up was worth while but really could have been earlier.Correct, I have no idea what any of these are. But the 2 things I do know are the city is spectacular and I want to go back and the square looking arch is the beginning of my Tuscany Trail.Under this arch and up the hill for spectacular views of Florence, slightly marred by stalls selling tat.I was hoping the route was going to be white roads extending off into beautiful Tuscan hills. It wasn’t there were a few sections of white gravel that was great, connecting tarmac. The route was most certainly undulating and the scenery was beautiful.Each sapping hill taking more out of my legs. I had planned a stop at a campsite just outside San Gimignano, when I got there 6 other cyclists were there…. maybe cycling is popular around here.The sight into San Gimignano. I left the campsite before anyone else was up. This gave me a fantastic solo ride through the streets.Today completely made up for yesterday’s lack of white roads with probably 75% off road. The route cut and twisted. I know you think, oh how lovely gently spinning along seeing the road extend out ahead , if only that were true. Each hill ripping the energy out of your legs, I just dropped to the lowest gear but still that was not low enough, 2, 3, 4 occasions I had to stop to take a breath and leant into the bike to push the final 100meters to the top. My legs always wobbly at the top. Then the way down, the back wheel kicking and bouncing. Best I take it easy on the turns.I ducked under a barrier with a no entry sign…. I’m sure that’s for cars. 2 hours I saw no one. No houses just me on a gravel road in the Tuscan woods. So go. Then I passed some spectacular houses, just what I am looming for…. maybe a little rich for me 🤔.On one section of road 3 guys caught up with me I told them I was on the way to Athens they told me I was pointing in the wrong direction.I bought a pork sandwich from a guy at a market stall. Cut in half one at 11.00 and one at 14.00. I was stuffed.

Such a great day. And I get to do it all over again tomorrow 😀😀😀😀😎😎😎🤩🤩🤩

The road to Tuscany

I woke at 07.00 having had a good sleep? Pleased about that.

The gates were being opened as I left the campsite.

An easy ride south along the beach bike path, flat as a pancake. Then turn left towards Pisa and on to Florence.

And that’s just about what happened.

I got to Pisa at about 10.30/11.00 As the masses were getting up and getting in my way. Hence all pictures have unknown friends in them.

A

Everybody was doing that leaning on the tower thing trying to push it straight or over, I don’t know or particularly care which.

I did search around for a cafe and the one I found served good coffee.

I bought some pizza for lunch, then when i sat down for my lunch i found extra dough balls in the bag…. how nice is that?

Then the route took me past this that I thought to be quite nice.

I found a campsite (Camping Sangiusto) off to the left of my route and as I started to ride there for road went up and up. I reckon this Tuscany trail is going to be tough. It’s 550kms with just over 8000m of climbing. Well it’ll be tough for me, you hardened riders would find it a doddle. And I went through the birth place of Leonardo, which I thought was cool.

Grrrrrr short cuts

I staggered a bit as I let go of the bike and made my way to the camping reception. The heat today was so oppressive. I saw 41° on a pharmacy sign, that’s hot. Ewan and Maggs had not surfaced as i left the camp site. 07.30 I think. The coastal road was undulating and the continuous spectacular views spured me on. I’m interested many houses have relief painted onto then and even windows sometimes. Although there are examples of the real thingFocaccia is a speciality of the area best I have some for breakfastThis one is with onion.

Normally in not a car person but as I rode by a garage I saw this Alfa Romeo. Feel free to purchase it for me. I believe it had only just been repainted.My route curved away from the sea, actually going straighter to cut out a promontory. But it was up all the way to the Passo del Bracco at 600+ meters.The road eventually came down but one of the connecting roads was restricted to cyclists. I looked at the map and took a short cutI usually feel I can get up anything, I think I got up just after half way, but I turned a corner and the rode rose up in front of me again and my legs gave up, resting my head on my stem panting for at least a minute then started to push.Luckily the last 15 kms were all down hill to the sea.

It was getting on to 17.00 and I had been out riding all day. I was totally frazzled. The dizziness and weakness are not felt till I am not concentrating on riding.

Wet.

As I was about to leave on Monday I started to feel tired and comfortable where I was so I chirped up and asked Tanc and Sally if I could blag another night. They reluctantly agreed… there is only so much of my jibberjabber people can handle.😉 . Loitered all day while Tanc and Sally worked. Then we walked the village. Such a relaxing time and such spectacular people Tanc and Sally are.

But go I had to, so 08.30. I carried my bike up the stairs

and and bade a fond goodbye to Tanc and Sally and cruised off down the road.

Brilliantly down hill to the sea and along the coast.

I did a bad job on my back tyre having put a tubeless worm in and I thought it best to purchase a replacement tyre. I rode into

And this guy

Sold me a,

My route was flat and by the sea so the sea scapes were beautiful but not that dynamic.

The thunderstorms hit just after midday and from then on I was soaked and a bit cool and miserable.

I finally made it to a campsite at 18.00. Quickly put my tent up and had pizza for dinner with Maggs and Ewan who had flown from Glasgow and were starting a 2 week cycling tour.

A day of enjoyable surprises

I know it looks like a toy. It it’s a real (broken down) car
Last night I met Franco, he pitched his tent opposite me and we struck up a conversation about, what else, cycling. And we wiled away a fair few hours talking stuff and putting the world to rights. He cooked some pasta and tomatoes sauce, perfect. He lives close to Venice and had just popped across country to sample a bit of riding in the West and also checking out France. He is a great guy and we had a famous nightNot only had Franco moved in but 5 other tents. One with a baby of course next to me and of course it cried 3 or 4 times during the night and woke me. So my night was fitful.Next morning a slow get up and out the campsite gates. 5km down the road I stopped for C & C.Straight after coffee the sky darkened and a vicious thunderstorm blessed us with a good few gallons of water. I stood under a petrol station canopy. Then as with all thunderstorms it stopped and the sun shone.The route along the coast can be all cycle path which I took. Along thus route there is the town of San Remo, fsmous fir being the end point if the Milan to San Remo bike race. The longest single stage bike race in professional cycling, 298kms.So many people riding to the beach. I stopped for coffee and struck up a conversation with an Italian couple neither of us being particularly competent at the other’s language. But they mentioned a place near that they thought worthy of an excursions off the coast. I took up their suggestion and rode to Bussana Vecchia. Abandoned because of an earthquake in 1887 and left derelect until it was repopulate by artists in the 1960s. It is now a beautiful hilltop town full of artists selling their wares. Well worth the upward ride. It is meetings like these that make this trip so rewarding.A friend in UK mentioned he had a friend who was living in the area and I was offered a bed for the night. Tanc and Sally live in a spectacular hill top village 20km from the coast Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena. I got directions and rode inland. I was told it was up a bit but for some reason I was suffering, there is no shade, the day had been extremely humid but the reward once again worth every pedal stroke, I have to admit I did have a couple of ‘moment’s on the way up of dizziness and heat exhaustion. But in the village I was met by Tanc and treated to a splendid night of, village get togethers, bonfires, and such a great and unexpected time.

Banging out the Kilometres.

Is this my destiny?

Usual get up packed and riding by 07.00. I had Italy on my mind and the route was set into the Garmin. But on observation there was way more elevation on the route than most of my other days. Well I just ride what’s in front of me.

Provence is beautiful, rolling hills, lavender covered fields with a pungency to die for. I was riding through heaven. Except for those abysmal French drivers of course.

The route twisted and turned I intermittently saw signs for Eurovelo 8 but to follow them would be so mentally taxing looking for the signs I just rode on past.

Fuck it I didn’t get to go here. 🤔

Stopping at a boulongerie for my maybe 4th breakfast the woman said get to the coast it’s flat from there on. I believed her but I did not deviate from my original route plan.

Finally I smelt the sea and my legs quickened with the excitement. Cannes is the first place I hit and what a shit place that is, tacky stores, shitty high rise flats that you wouldn’t pay 5 grand for its just bleh. On and into Antibes….. no better. In Nice I followed 2 triathletes and got a good pull but they turned off and as I followed the road and didn’t look at my Garmin I got horrendously lost in a maze of apartment roads. I had to back track to find the route.

I know I just couldn’t get him to move!

Monaco high rise flats!

Luckily the traffic lights helped me to take this only view without an apartment block in.
I even did my shirt up to give an sure I’d decorum

Then a full on gun for the finish line at the Italian border. Menton I quite liked as a town. The last in France where I bought this small yacht.

Then Ciao Italia. I just kept on the same road and as I stopped to look for a campsite I saw this.

I rode in and signed up for 2 nights.

Now this coastline between Cannes and Menton (a bit like the Amalfi coast) is beautiful but as with many georgeous routes they have been desecrated by apartments, tacky shops, tourists (yes I know I am one), and cars and more cars and motorbikes and mopeds screeching howling continuously all day and night, if that’s your idea of luxury 😏. There are so so many better places to go. Luckily this has not been my destination it’s just a road on my way somewhere else.

A day off for me today. Just over 1000km in the last 7 days. So feeling a little pooped.

A little piece of tranquillity

My time at the campsite yesterday evening was so tranquil. Away from the hubbub of roads, cars, lorries and the self imposed focus on cycling, I washed all my other. Lounged in the pool in my borrowed budgie smugglers. The grass of the site a perfect green and all for the princely sum of €12.But I awoke early and enjoyed my breakfast on a borrowed chair pot on a table. So nice to eat a meal not with me sitting on the ground, the pot between my feet and my stomach scrunched up.I was packed and out the fatwas it got light. Both back lights flashing. The spectacular roads of Provence are softly undulating and winding between vine covers hills.Regular stops for coffee and croissants punctuate my ride.But by 11.00 I felt pretty drained and in searching for my next pick me up I dwindled to a very slow plod. Finally finding a small town I wolfed down 2 pieces of pizza and a bun. Nodded off for a bit in the town square. Then reset my route and pitched off again.I decided I was not 100% and went in search of a campsite. This I found but the price was back to €20 and no use of the pool due to no budgie smugglers…. maybe my nickers will do? I feel a bit swindled.