As I boarded the boat already there were 2 bikes tied up. I leant mine against them and watched at the guy tied my bike securely.ย
Zdenฤk and Ava were already seated I asked if I could join, they nievely agreed. We talked bikes and bije packing.
The boat trip was about 10 hours. Possibly a bit long I would have been happier at about 6 hours. I’m very glad I decided to ride from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng 2 days on the boat would have been interminable.
We discovered our hotels werw opposite each other. We had an evening meal and went to our respective hotels.
The music went on till 1am last night. But still the relentless slarm went off at 6.45. I searched around for some food but coukd only find 3 easypeelers.
Energy company’s are the biggest employer in Hongsa. I was lucky to find a good supermarket close to the works.
I knew today was going to be another tough day with multiple climbs and excessive gradients.
11 am lunch was greatI saw a loomNo idea what this isThis was a beautiful village This was niceSo was thisNo idea what this isSweat salt on my shirt
I salvaged a little pride back today.ย Yes the gradients were brutalย but really the 85kms were such a walk in the park after yesterday. But i managed to cycle and not get off and walk. The scenery was fantastic, but there were a fair few more vehicles on the road today.
I went out for my evening meal. The resturant had large tables and people are ‘forced to sit together. I like this relaxed style. Bringing people together, multiple conversations with different groups.
I heard a beeping but ignored it, battery completely drained on Di2
Totally underestimating the elevation
I was feeling pretty chipper this morning, days rest, clothes laundered, bike washed, chain waxed. Perfect timing for the ferry across the mighty Mekong River.
The riding is so much better. There is minimal traffic on the road. This road ends at the ferry which only services up to small vans so none of the lorries come this way. As a consequence the road surface is almost totally intact. Minimal dust.
I was a chipper bunny as I rode along at the start. I knew there were some proper mountain climbs. But I was enamoured by the beauty of the scenery. Oh how naive I was. There were 3 big climbs 1200m, 1400m, and 1300m. And in-between there was a sawtooth profile, and every up was at 15 %.
After a bit I was reduced to walking up each climb, I hung my head in shame as the motorbikes went past. And I nearly cried when Martje from Italy stopped for a chat. She had ridden from South to North in Thailand. We warned each other of the road elevation ahead, she rode on to find a camp spot. My legs were so wobbly I could hardly move. My heels were rubbing to blisters. And it was so hot, very little shade, i drank all my water. This route has had limited drink supply shops. Luckily I passed through a small village, I devoured 2 orange Fantas and decanted a bottle of water into my bottles.
My route took me straight to a guesthouse. I checked in before I fully assessed the impact of a Lao wedding. They love the music to distortion levels and beyond.
Day off in Luang Prabang, its s world heritage site and it has a stunning amount of temples. I got a bit templed out so went for a massage. Lao massage is a strong massage, highley recommended. Those who like the relaxing oily massages may not like it so much (I do like both) and none of this is euphemistically speaking.
I met Vinny and Matilda from Belgium at my guesthouse. They have just done my new proposed route but the opposite way. I picked their brains.
A truck went past one tyre completely deflated and ripping off its rim. So glad I was just sitting by the side of the road. I really wouldn’t have liked him passing me.
This sequence of videos sort of give a feeling as to what today’s ride was like. I suppose you can get a gist really from the first one, but I showed the lot anyway. Some do look the same but they are all different.
The mist was non existent in the town but as soon as I left town visibility lowered and the close intermittent potholes and wrecked road are hard to see.
3 cycle shirts and only 1 pair of nickers ๐ค๐คทโโ๏ธ what was I thinking when I was packing.
6.45 I stopped the alarm before it went off. Did a quick meditation. Stuffed my face with a cake, some yoghurt and a litre of fluid.
A morning chance meet with a fellow cyclist. She is riding from South to. Orth and back to China. Our conversation was brief due to usual language difficulties.
My route was 4kms flat then up down and up.
After the 1000meter climbs. I’m pretty excited to be going down, there are usually a few undulations before the full down hill. I let the brakes loose and as I approached a dip I saw the road was a mess. I tried to pick a line but I was going fast then a 8cms step appeared, I jerked the front wheel up to try to reduce the impact. There was an almighty crack, the bike skidded and slewed across the road, bumping all over the place I kept it upright, surprisingly and stopped panting and relived. I inspected the wheels, I saw or felt no cracks. Stayer All Roads are brilliant wheels.
These roads are now full of lorries transporting stuff around the country. The riding is not particularly enjoyable. Laos has only a few roads and obviously all traffic use them. I was pushed off the road at least once today.
Today I went to a street resturant and asked for some vegetables. Tge woman just said No! I was a little taken aback. But just rode off.
Once again the day went fast. And I got to my near 100kms. Both Bookings.com and Google maps had no guest houses in this area. But I checked that there were. They are all looking a bit sleazy. I checked one out I didn’t like and went into the next. Its OK. Bed seems clean which is good. It’s about ยฃ8 so not too expensive.
I woke at about 12.30, then again at 2 then just before my alarm at 6.45. Packed and out the door and riding by 8am.
I saw Emma and Thibault who I had met at the border. I was keen to get going so didn’t stop for breakfast with them. Which in retrospect was a mistake. Emma will be happy to know I have found a bakery in Muang Xai. So there are some bakeries a out. ๐
Todays ride was along the Nam Phak River Valley it is extraordinarily beautiful. Georgeous lush mountains green green and more green. But some days seem to wizz past and others drag. Yesterday despite the two 1000meter climbs seem to speed past with joy. But today, flatter but absolutely beautiful following the river seems to be dragging and at half way I sort of feel I should be at the end.
I set the video a lot higher on my chest. It’s better but still not great. Slowly it’s getting better, if I could just edit a bit it’ll be great.
It’s too long but good to see my view on today.
It’s too long but good to see what it’s like riding through a village.
Yes this is the video of me nearly killing an old lady. It was my fault. But she didn’t die so all’s well.
RiverLong boatI love my bike ๐Wasn’t expecting thisLunch1st real templeBikepacking obligationAlone againDinner
I ambled put this morning at about 7.30am and rode up the road searching for a bakery I had seen the day before.
On the way there I saw this. Dead animal carcass being blowtorched and dug at with a spade..My little buns filled with cream were nice.
Then off I set. The mist was heavy so I flicked my lights on. Flat for the first 20kms or so then the road starts to pitch skywards and rise it did up to 1200meters. This border crossing could not have been more aptly placed. As the road rises it changes from tarmac to concrete, and beat up concrete, lorries going up snd down crushing the road to a pulp, kicking up plumes of dust covering everything. The beautiful verdant vegetation all changed to a gray colour. I was pushed off the road regularly. Eventually after a good 10 kms going up the lorries turn off and the last 2 kms are bliss.
Into the border area. A policeman waves me to him and asked me if I wanted to chsnge some money. I stupidly said yes and got the worst exchange ever, so embaressed.
Then as I was getting my exit visa stamped the border guard asked me if I wanted to exchange money. I changed all the rest of my Vietnamese Dong to Kep.
There is a 5kms road between the border checkpoints. Then you are spat put the other side. Into Laos.
I sped down hill for ages and got to Munag Mai. Saw the Chinese resturant
Delicious
There is another climb up to 1000meters. Near the top I met Josi and Baran, they recommend a hotel in Muang Khuna. We had a long conversation
I rode on, so near the top. Then 2 Belgium cyclists. Grrrrr didn’t get their names.
Lots of this being driedRiver views.
Finally getting to Muang Khua at a out 4. I met Bud for a meal at 6. He’s also cycling.
Part of the reason for coming to this area is to see and at least get a photo of the rice fields.
I left the hotel and rode across the bridge to the Winmart shop to get some yoghurt and a drink. I then bumped into Arco and Anne who were just having a coffee. Quick chat and I rode off.
The route today had a climb to a pass at just under 1000m which was particularly taxing. As a general rule I just clunk the bike into easiest gear and plod my way to the top. I just don’t have the strength or energy to go in any faster.
There were rice fields and mountain views.
Not good to come at this in the nightI so love these housesMany of the locals are wearing traditional dress. Fair bit of dust being kicked upJust thrown downSo disappointed this photo doesn’t show how steep this slope is.
This climb was near the end. I had to stop half way up for some food and a rest.
I was aiming for a homestay that Jarek and Emila had recomended on my 3rd night in Vietnam. I rode hard to get there only to be informed that it was full. Luckily the homestay owner recommend a hotel. Unfortunately I do not have quite enough money to stay 2 nights. But I’m real tired and sore from today. I’m in a real quandary.
Arco and Anne had recomended a Thai restaurant in Dien Bien Phu. Most definitely the best meal I have had while in Vietnam.
A Couple of Days Ride Outta....... 